QUOTE (FASTLARRY @ Jul 18 2010, 06:16 PM)

Ah so Grasshopper, U begin to figure this out, its all hype and bull ****, to con you into spending $275 on a shaft that should not cost over $100.
My techie thingie is more anvanced than yo techiie woopie.
What did Willie play with, a Balabushka, what do I use, same thing, same taper, same kind of wood, and thats what I now sell, the juice shaft, which out plays every one you listed. This I guarantee you, or you get your money back.
End of story. Back to my Glenlevit.
As I have posted many times, I love my juiced shaft. So much, I bought a second months later. The 11.5mm tip, the taper, the quality of the solid wood used in the Balabushka shaft, the ferrule all contribute to the great result without gimicky shaft construction techniques.
FL might usually tell you much of what I am about to say, but if he is focused on the Glenlevit, he just gave you the short answer. I learned a fair amount of the following by reading and talking to FL, and from other sources too. So don't look at this as a conflict to FL, just more details behind the answer.
The concept of deflection definitely exists and can definitely be mitigated through design of the shaft. It all comes down to mass at the tip (not talking about balance point here, there was a great thread a few weeks ago about tip heavy or butt heavy cues). This is about the weight in the last several inches of the shaft at the tip. The more weight in the tip, the more force that presses against the CB when hit off center, the more squirt of the cue ball as it moves from its stationary position. Make the tip area lighter by making the diameter small, removing material from the end of the shaft (drilling out some wood at the tip), using lighter ferrule materials, or whatever, you get less deflection. This is part of the story.
The other part of the story is the spine of the cue, or how much it flexes side to side. The natural wood grain is naturally stiffer in one direction than any other. The amount of flex in the shaft will also slightly affect deflection. The more flex, the lower the deflection. The various methods of making shafts in a laminated or joined fashion is all about making the shaft as consistent as possible in any orientation so you get consistent deflection. Consistency leads to the reason why the greats where great without all this new shaft technology....
The greats had learned to adjust for deflection, however much, their cue created. They factored it in. Yes, the Balabushka shaft and taper at 11 or 12 mm might have been less than a different cue, but what ever the amount of deflection created, they knew how to account for it in their aim point. Less is better because you have less to account for, but it is always there and once you know how to account for it, you can apply the english and shoot accurately.
For me, the various brands that join many pieces of wood to make a shaft are charging a lot for a technology that is better in marketing messages than it is in real life. It may be more consistent than solid wood, but it is also going to handle energy flowing through it very differently. The glues used are not the same as the way wood fibers are joined naturally. Most wood glues are stronger than the natural wood fibers. What does eight separate pieces of wood with eight glue lines feel like compared to a solid piece of wood? A well selected piece of sold wood with straight grain may not be as perfect in terms of the grain pattern as eight slices glued to all have straight grain, but that solid piece of wood has a tonal resonance created in nature that a manufactured wood product just does not have. It has a different kind of consistency; one that comes from natural growth without the glue lines. For me, a well selected solid piece of wood is always preferred. But that is my opinion. Many people like the manufactured wood shaft.
The manufactured shaft is about the consistency of the flex. The changes at the tip, whether solid wood or manufactured wood are about deflection (mass) So the predator dilling out some of the shaft at the tip reduces mass and would do the same on solid wood. The OB1 using a wood ferrule instead of plastic is about mass at the tip. Smaller diameter tips reduce mass. Neither of these have anything to do with the way the shaft was made form one or many pieces of wood.
If you want low deflection and natural quality, get a juiced shaft from FL. If you want engineered consistency of spine and low deflection at a high price and trading off the natural wood qualities in the process, go buy one of the many highly engineered products. Either will serve you well. Or you could just put in hundreds of hours of practice with any reasonable cue, let your brain learn to adjust for the deflection, and play better than most who spend the money on the technology and did not put in the time to learn how to use it.