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What is the best glue for a pool cue tip?


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#1 FASTLARRY

FASTLARRY

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Posted 12 March 2011 - 08:46 PM

What is the best glue for a pool cue tip?

http://cgi.ebay.com/...em=260751521304

POOL CUE TIP SUPER GLUE LOCTITE PROFESSIONAL 20g gram .71 oz bottle $7.99

Fast Larry's choice. A Best buy, low price.


Pro pool player and world champion Fast Larry always sorts it out and finds out what is best and what cooks. He sells a lot of tips and people keep asking, what kind of glue do I use. So he added it into his store. IMHO, the loctite pro is the best, hands down. Others are selling it for $11.88 down to $8.57. Here is your best glue, for the best price. Your search on this subject, just ended.

Super glue has always been sold in these 2" long, thin, 3/4" side tubes. You get 1 or 2 uses out of this tube, it sucks in, the glue becomes a rock and 2/3rd's of the bottle is wasted. We have all been there on that rip off trip. You only get .10 oz, 3 g. for about $5 to $7. Now compare my bottle, .71 oz, 6 times more, and 20 G, NOT 3 g. The price savings here is simply enormous. And having the glue not in this thin tube, but in a large plastic bottle, 4 l/2" long, 1 1/4" wide, the glue settles down in and you get to use all of it.
IMHO, this is much better than the Tiger glue, and you get more of it. The old fashioned 10 minute cement, is the product of the past, its awful.

You get ultimate speed & strength with the FL super glue.. FL is also a pro installer for Kamui, Morri, and works with Willard tip machines and on a lathe in his shop. He installs all the top tips on the cues he sells so his tip jobs must be first class. So he had to find, the best glue to use. This is the one best suited for the install of a leather or plastic pool cue tip. It will also work for your other needs around the house, on wood, leather, rubber, paper, ceramic and plates. You can repair and bond just about everything now. It works on the hard to bond surfaces also. It will hold stronger. It has a pin point nozzle which allows precise application without dripping or oozing. You apply to the tip, then wipe the excess off of the nozzle and tap the bottle and let the glue glide back down inside. Then put the cap back on and the screw cap seals the nozzle for on going clog free use. performance. Always have the bottle sitting upright. Dont let it lay flat.

You want to totally clean and sand the surface of the ferrule and the bottom of the tip. It works so fast, you can actually put a tip on by hand now. Always use a tip larger than the ferrule, so there is some overlap and you dont have to be exact. If you have a 13mm ferrule, install and use a 14mm tip. Cover the bottom of the tip with the glue, then set it on the ferrule, note, work quick, because in 10 to 15 seconds, you wont be able to move the tip around, its that fast, so center it quickly, then press down on the top with your finger firmly and hold it in place for 60 seconds. Within 90 seconds, you could be trimming off the edges and sanding the tip down. I still recommend for best results, you let the tip sit for 10 minutes. If you really want to be sure, let it cure overnight for 24 hrs. Keep the glue off of your fingers, and out of your eyes. You might want to wear rubber gloves you can get from the pharmacy.

It's always smart to buy two tubes at a time, this is something you never want to run out of and you want a backup tube in case your main one goes bad. Once you 0pen the tube, and use it, seal the cap on the top, put it inside a dry new Kerr Jar, that has a cap that can seal out the air. Save some of these moisture absorbent packs you see in vitamins and in other products and toss a couple of them in the jar. Keep the Jar in the fridge. Your back up tube keep in the freezer standing upright, and when you want to use it, take it out and give it 24 hrs to thaw out. Follow this and you will stop wasting this expensive product and pull every drop out of the bottle.

Super Glue: Tips and Tricks for Using and Storing Cyanoacrylate Adhesives

Super Glues, accelerators and debonders.

One of the most common products in a woodturners studio is cyanoacrylate ester, or as it is more commonly called, Super Glue, or CA. Cyanoacrylate adhesive can be a valuable addition to your woodturning toolbox for numerous tasks around your workshop. Here are a few tips for using and storing CA that will help you make the most of this versatile product.
Storing Cyanoacrylates

Most CAs have an average shelf life of about 6-12 months once opened. Unopened bottles can be stored in the freezer for an extended period of time. However, once a CA bottle is opened and exposed to atmospheric moisture, different storage procedures are required to prevent premature curing in the bottle.

* Unopened Containers: Unopened bottles should be stored in the freezer for the longest shelf life. Before using, allow the bottle to come to room temperature. I prefer to allow the frozen bottle to sit overnight on the bench before using it, to insure that it has reached uniform ambient temperature.
* Opened Containers: Do not store opened bottles without their caps, unless you live in areas that routinely have very low humidity levels year round. Exposure to high humidity can cause premature curing of the CA in the bottle.

If you purchase your Super Glue in bulk containers and transfer them into smaller applicator bottles for use, insure that these bottles are manufactured from polyethylene for best storage results.

Do not store opened CA containers near your manual pump accelerator bottle. During the summer months, high heat can cause accelerator vapors to leave the pump spray unit, causing premature curing of a nearby CA bottle. Some accelerators are now available in pressurized spray cans. While these are more expensive initially than bulk liquids, over time I have found out that they end up costing less per use than the bulk liquids.

Do not store opened bottles in the freezer. When removed, condensation may develop inside the bottle causing premature curing.

For best long term storage results, store opened CA bottles in a jar with a desiccant to absorb any moisture inside the jar. When stored this way, you can usually get every drop out of the bottle. Another option is to place the opened CA bottles inside a jar with a mason lid and pull a vacuum on the jar. This works very well, but requires a vacuum unit.

If you do not have one, use the above method with desiccant packs to remove any moisture inside the jar. Desiccant packs can be purchased at most camera and electronics stores, or be scavenged from the boxes of any new electronics that you purchase.
Preventing Tip Clogging with Super Glues

Its a quite common and frustrating fact that cyanoacrylates tend to clog the tips of their applicator bottles. If you employ one of the following procedures, you can effectively mitigate this problem.

When you have finished using the CA, allow sufficient time for the CA left in the tip to return to the bottle before replacing the cap. Sometimes, a sharp rap on the counter will assist in clearing the tip of the bottle of any uncured Super Glue. Always cover the bottle with a cloth and wear face and eye protection when rapping the bottle to clear the tip. Wipe the exterior of the tip with paper towels before storing the bottle away. Sometimes the lid may glue on, get two pair of pliers and break the bond loose. If the flow is blocked, the bottle fell over on its side, open up and run a paper clip end down the nozzle to clear a path.


Do not touch the tip of the bottle onto a surface that has been sprayed with active accelerator, or the accelerator will cure the CA inside the nozzle. When you have finished using the CA, simply switch the used tip for a spare clean tip. Place the used tip in a small jar of Acetone until it is needed again.

When another fresh tip is needed, use tweezers to swap the clean tip in the Acetone jar with the used tip. Allow the tip to fully dry before replacing the tip on the CA bottle. Spare tips can be purchased at most suppliers that sell CA.


Using Super Glue for Filling Deep Voids

Many of you know that I do lots of inlay work! In addition to inlaying gemstones and precious metals in my work, I also regularly inlay crushed stone and other materials that are secured with either CA, or epoxy. If you are going to use CA on deep voids, or as a binder for inlay work such as crushed stone, you need to allow sufficient time for a full thickness cure before sanding the filled area. How long this takes is variable, but it may requite up to 24 hours or longer, depending on the depth of the void.

While you can use an accelerator to help speed up the overall curing time, nothing can replace time. It's best to let the CA cure without any accelerator on really deep voids, as over use of the accelerator in an attempt to speed the curing can result in blooming, or frosting. In severe cases, bubbles can form under the cured skin.

If possible, use no accelerator at all and let the piece cure naturally overnight, or longer before you begin sanding the area. Not only will your deep void look better, it will sand easier when allowed to fully cure before sanding. On large and deep crushed stone filled voids, I prefer to use no accelerator and wait one to two days before sanding to insure a full thickness cure.

Again, there is no substitute for time here. If you try to rush the cure on a deep void, you may end up damaging the turning, requiring a repair. In addition, sanding before the void has fully cured can present a safety hazard, as the deeper layers of the void may still be liquid, even when the top is rock hard. By sanding too soon, you risk exposing the lower liquid layers which may spray out onto your face or body when sanding on the lathe.
Using Accelerators with Super Glue



Accelerators, or kickers, are available in pump sprayers, aerosol sprayers or bulk bottles.
If youve worked with any CA products before, you may have occasionally noticed a white haze, or frosting on your CA during its cure cycle. This phenomenon is called blooming or frosting. High ambient humidity levels, or improper use of accelerators can cause violent curing reactions, resulting in frosting, or blooming when cured.

In addition to the above, if you place your woodturning into a closed container, prior to the CA being fully cured, it can cause blooming and frosting. Closed containers prevent the vapors from dissipating during the cure cycle, allowing them to redeposit on the surface of the CA.

To eliminate these super glue problems:

* Use low odor or low bloom products. These are specifically formulated to reduce blooming and frosting. The manufacturer will state on the label if the CA is a low bloom version.
* Reduce the ambient studio humidity before use. Dehumidifiers should be set to the range of 40 50% for best results. If you do not have a dehumidifier, choose low humidity days for your CA work.
* Cross-ventilate your workspace to dissipate curing vapors, before they can resettle onto the applied area.
* Reduce the amount of accelerator, or eliminate it entirely.


Safety Note: Always follow all manufacturers safety instructions before working with your lathe, or any of the tools or products you may use. If you are unsure about any operation, obtain competent professional instruction before proceeding. Use and wear all necessary safety devices during turning and observe safe woodturning practices to prevent accident or injury.

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"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.comicon_smile.gificon_biggrin.gificon_surprised.gificon_surprised.gificon_razz.gif





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