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#1 User is offline   Wink 

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Posted 07 July 2010 - 09:33 PM

I have a Cognoscenti (Joey Gold) cue and somehow, a friend snapped a shaft in half. No clue what happened, but nonetheless, I need to replace the shaft.

I just read Harky's great thread to Schon about the OB-2 shaft, and I read a few other shaft threads here and on a couple of other sites. Anyhow, I am curious if I should just call Joey, and get another shaft from him (stock) or get a "low-deflection" shaft.

Seriously considered the Predator Z, the OB shafts, Eye Shaft, and the 314. I was wondering if the stock Joey shaft or the 314 would be the better choice. IF I were to go the 314, here is what I found:

Replacement Shaft for my Pool Cue ($273.40) - my shaft broke
http://www.seyberts.com/products/Predator_...0218-10061.html
Predator 314 shaft for Cognoscenti Cue (one silver ring of 30)
28 3/4” length
Talisman WB Medium tip
13.5mm tip or 12.75mm
(Note: I have the original clearer version of the joint screw)

However, if it is all hype, I'll just get another stock shaft for the replacement.

I wish I had someone to give me some pointers in the Chicago area like FL gave to Harky. But I'll save my playing issues and practice issues for another section of this forum.

Looking forward to your thoughts.
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#2 User is offline   Wink 

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Posted 12 July 2010 - 08:35 PM

29 views so far and no comments?

Harky? FL? Anyone else? Any thoughts?
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#3 User is offline   PB Matrix 

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Posted 13 July 2010 - 04:05 AM

I am liking the Black Dots, FL no likey them, and since they get bad reviews on this site, e-bay cues with black dots can be had for about the price of a new black dot.
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#4 User is offline   Demondrew 

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Posted 13 July 2010 - 09:28 PM

View PostPB Matrix, on Jul 13 2010, 05:05 AM, said:

I am liking the Black Dots, FL no likey them, and since they get bad reviews on this site, e-bay cues with black dots can be had for about the price of a new black dot.


When I first started getting serious about my game I shot with quite a few different cue/shaft combinations. I found I liked the Black Dot shaft of Meucci. That was then this is now. I have gone back to a straight billiard taper 13mm tip cue. I still have my Meucci but havent openbed the case in a couple of years.

Once I developed my stroke I no longer needed the whippy shaft of the Meucci.

My two cents.

Andy
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote.
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#5 User is offline   cmpunk 

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 11:45 AM

Some players actually play better with a whippy shaft. They get used to the squirt/deflection & shoot pretty good. Some people can't adjust to a low squirt shaft & shoot terrible with one. My advice is try them both out to see which one works for you if you have a dealer in your area.
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#6 User is offline   Schon 

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Posted 15 July 2010 - 01:41 PM

View PostDemondrew, on Jul 13 2010, 07:28 PM, said:

When I first started getting serious about my game I shot with quite a few different cue/shaft combinations. I found I liked the Black Dot shaft of Meucci. That was then this is now. I have gone back to a straight billiard taper 13mm tip cue. I still have my Meucci but havent openbed the case in a couple of years.

Once I developed my stroke I no longer needed the whippy shaft of the Meucci.

My two cents.

Andy


Unlike Demondrew, I had no problems with my old shaft. I just wanted to see what the deal was with the new technology. The OB2 shaft and the new smaller diameter was not very forgiving so flaws in my stroke started to show. I am almost back to old self with the new shaft and I do think it will be an improvement when I get used to it.

I honestly don't think you will find much of a difference between all the low deflection staffs but you will see the difference between these and regular shafts.
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#7 User is offline   Wink 

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Posted 19 July 2010 - 04:01 PM

Thank you for the thoughts.

I got some new tips and put them on this week, and I am amazed at how much difference a TIP can make.

I can't imagine how much change the shafts, combined with the tips can make and all the mixing variables.

I think for now, I'll just stick with the remaining shafts I have, until I have the opportunity to try someone else's shaft like an OB or a Predator, or other comparables.

As Schon mentioned, there is a difference between a regular shaft and a low-deflection shaft. Unknown the differences between the various low deflection shafts.

What percentage of tournament players and/or pros would anyone think are using low-deflection shafts at this point?
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#8 User is offline   headmuses 

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Posted 20 July 2010 - 07:32 PM

Wink
Go to the main forum and look up the thread "Best Low Deflection Shaft?"

http://www.poolchat....?showtopic=6788

It might give you some thoughts about answers to your question.

Cheers

Headmuses
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#9 User is offline   Harky 

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 09:14 AM

Its too bad that the "Cues" section of this site doesn't get the hits and/or traffic that the main site gets. Nevertheless people who want to stick to the game and its equipment will jump over here for some focused conversation. Oh well...

Your request for comments: I'll just throw this out. The previous comment about getting used to just about anything with enough playing time is true. In a doctorate class one time the professor flat out told us aspiring candidates, 'You will never find the truth. What you will find are small pieces of the truth." She was correct. Here's a few very small pieces of the greater truth that you can use to fill out the jigsaw puzzle:

#1 Low deflection shafts DO work in reducing squirt. No doubt. There are about three or four that are most effective and interestingly enough they are pretty much equal in their deflection. I did the research on this and cannot remember where I saw the data; I believe it was plotted in either a graph or a simple comparison chart. Any method to reduce the weight in the final six inches of a shaft will reduce deflection. The laminated or pieced together shafts will give the same deflection or bending of the shaft tip regardless of how you are holding the cue and that's pretty much their claim to fame because anyone who has tried to break a piece of wood 'with the grain' instead of 'across the grain' (karate demonstrators have used this trick for many years) can surmise that the shaft will flex more with the grain perpendicular to the table, hence the "dot" on the Meucci solid shafts. How much this really matters is a matter of feel, expertise, and ego. You can reduce the deflection of a solid shaft by using a 12mm. shaft instead of a standard 13mm. and also go with a lighter, smaller ferrule. So yes, it can be done and FL has done all the research on this with the 'juiced' shaft.

#2 Marketing... "Why does a dog lick his balls?" A: "Because he can." The question then follows, "Why do these companies charge so much for the laminated shafts? ...... Think about it. If a player insists on having a state of the art laminated shaft, my opinion is two fold... If you want a 13 mm. shaft almost all of them out there will be fine but with that diameter you somewhat loose the whole purpose of a low deflection shaft. However if you go with a 12 mm. shaft and tip that will significantly make the CB dance and do things you never thought you could do, then spend the money and go with the Predator Z.

#3 Tip hardness... Conventional thinking needs to go out the window on this one: A hard Talisman or a hard Morri will most definitely also make your CB dance and draw and spin. The notion of a medium or soft tip staying on the ball longer and giving you more spin is the stuff that comes from the south end of a north facing cow. Once you play with a hard, quality tip, you won't want anything else.

#4 Pillow on a pole story.... I played off and on for thirty plus years with an old Brunswick cue my mother gave me for Christmas in 1972. Yes, I'm still alive and still have it. It's 13.3 mm. and has a traditional medium fifty cent tip on it. I did not know any better. I've started playing a lot lately and, curse the internet stores for ease of purchase and loads of information, I started on the misdirected search for a new cue and subsequent shafts. So now I have a Predator Z and I believe it is the best laminated shaft out there, add a hard tip for maximum performance. I also bought a new butt (manufacturer isn't important) but it is weighted like most other butts. I have adapted to the 12mm. tip and thinner shaft as well as the hard tip. I can do some things with the CB that I never could have done in the past. However.... Here's the guts of the story... I pulled down my old Brunswick and it truly felt like a pillow on a pole. That is the best way I can describe it. It is clunky, no feel, deflects the CB if I try too much off center hit, and it's like driving a truck after getting used to a sports car. If I had not upgraded and downsized the shaft/tip and went with a harder tip I never would have known the difference. For a center ball hit, playing natural english, minimal draw and follow almost any cue will do and I will admit that the top 5% of players out there can get the CB to dance with these old style cues, no argument. But for the other 95% of us the new stuff makes the CB spin a lot easier.

#5 If I were to tell a good friend what to do, this is it: Try every shaft you possibly can, ignore the butt. If you are playing more than once or twice a week definitely go with a 12mm. shaft and hard tip. You will get used to it and like it.
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#10 User is offline   Harky 

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Posted 15 September 2010 - 08:14 AM

I wish I had your wisdom several years ago which is to ask around for feedback regarding the need to replace your stock shaft. It would have saved me a lot of money. Congratulations on your willingness to put your thoughts and needs out there. Now I know that at least 90% of the 'action' of a cue comes from the shaft and I wish I had put my money there (a couple of years ago) but that's hindsight today. All I can share is my experience and will weigh in once more with my experience. I can guarantee you that you will be happy, no - very happy with the first two of my following three thoughts:
#1 - best piece of equipment I ever bought was a "juiced" shaft from FL. I would tell anyone from the best to the worst player to get a regular, good to high quality solid replacement shaft for the going price and send it to Fast and have it juiced. Or... at least buy a replacement shaft from any shaft vendor, there are lots of them out there, and have two things done to it - have it turned by a local shop to 12 or 12.5mm. with a pro taper AND add a hard Talisman tip if you don't want to ship it to FL and have his guy do his magic. That may cost about the same as buying a Preditor Z2 but I can promise that you will be very, very happy with this. If buying an unknown to you freaks you out then --option #2 Buy a Preditor Z2 with a 12.75 and have them put on a Talisman hard tip on it. You will also love that shaft and if you don't have anything to compare it to so you will also love that as well. #3 Just buy a stock replacement shaft and you will have what you are used to but I can tell you that it is not 'all that it can be'. And ask the guy who broke your original shaft to kick in a $100 bucks for goodwill. :lol:
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#11 User is offline   CocoboloCowboy 

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Posted 15 September 2010 - 08:56 AM

I do not use no Fooking High Tech Shaft! IMHO they are like a bunch f BS HYPE. Willie Mosconi, and Willie Hoppie played with STOCK SHAFTS. If they can do it with a stock shaft, you can do it.
“Pool is geometry, in its most challenging form, the science of precise angles, and forces" - Quote from: A Game of Pool, The Twilight Zone 1961 Television Show.
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#12 User is offline   makeuacue 

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Posted 02 December 2011 - 06:12 PM

If the cue is a nice Cog , get an original shaft for the value aspect . if you don't care and just want to play any number of cue makers can duplicate a Cog shaft with a simple metal ring . aren't his shafts a 1/2 inch shorter, that adds to stiffness and a sharper hit . I 've had a few Cogs years back . They were solid players and had good value . I can make you a shaft with a stiff taper if you want . I would get a original from Cog and steer away from the gimmick shafts . No substitute for good wood .
Life is short , so play hard . If you don't shoot the balls in , you don't get paid . It's not the amount , it's the principal .
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