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If I play 4 hours + on the 9 foot I start playing close to "normal".
If I play 4 hours on the 7 foot I play my best, because this is the table I learned to play on over the last 2 months and spent the most time on (until recently when I've been on 9 footers)
Now I can't play EITHER good. Whether its the oversized cue ball of the bar table or adjusting from a big table to small table it really sucks. I'm sure if I spent 5 hours on one or the other I would play Okay, but it just seems like the skills I had on the 7 foot... before I ever went to the pool halls 9 foot have never come back.
I am probably going to have to just pick one table and stay there to play and stop playing on the others... but Im here for advice so what do you think?
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Keep switching from Pool Hall 9 foot diamond, to 7 foot bar table.. My skills just never stay the same.
#2 Guest_mrcrawdad_*
Posted 23 December 2009 - 09:36 PM
Destrukkt, on Oct 23 2009, 01:23 AM, said:
If I play 4 hours + on the 9 foot I start playing close to "normal".
If I play 4 hours on the 7 foot I play my best, because this is the table I learned to play on over the last 2 months and spent the most time on (until recently when I've been on 9 footers)
Now I can't play EITHER good. Whether its the oversized cue ball of the bar table or adjusting from a big table to small table it really sucks. I'm sure if I spent 5 hours on one or the other I would play Okay, but it just seems like the skills I had on the 7 foot... before I ever went to the pool halls 9 foot have never come back.
I am probably going to have to just pick one table and stay there to play and stop playing on the others... but I'm here for advice so what do you think?
If I play 4 hours on the 7 foot I play my best, because this is the table I learned to play on over the last 2 months and spent the most time on (until recently when I've been on 9 footers)
Now I can't play EITHER good. Whether its the oversized cue ball of the bar table or adjusting from a big table to small table it really sucks. I'm sure if I spent 5 hours on one or the other I would play Okay, but it just seems like the skills I had on the 7 foot... before I ever went to the pool halls 9 foot have never come back.
I am probably going to have to just pick one table and stay there to play and stop playing on the others... but I'm here for advice so what do you think?
Just me 2 cents, but first of all the 9 ft table should help your 7ft game. All long shots on the 7 footer should seem short after practicing on a 9 ft.
Seems like you might mot be ready tp practice alone before finding a better player you trust or teacher that will help you correct some major subtle faults that are being overlooked by you.
It doesn't take much to hold back improvement and so many at most pool halls I attend love to have the "nuts" and keep you right where your at.
I think FL's forum is about the only honest non/ego site I've seen online. I don't think the other sites always intend on bulls--t but somehow they wind up
blowing horns that aren't in "tune"
Again, a nine footer well tell you the truth about your stroke ,etc. where the seven footer was like a crutch.
Mrcrawdad
PS....find the tightest nine footer at the hall they will let you practice on and start with some of FL suggestions on developing stroke and your on your way........Mrcrawdad
#3
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Posted 24 December 2009 - 08:47 PM
this happens to me too. i practice on my 9ft and for hours and then play league one a week on a 7 ft. in the begining of the year, i totally sucked in league and got fairly frusterated. but i dont think the answer is not to practice on the 9ft table and the answer is not to stop playing league. i think its like most things and the more you play on both tables, the better you will play on both tables. you are probably going from a table that plays faster with better rails and fewer clustered balls to a slower table with dead rails and everything tied up. itll get easier. its the nature of the beast, most of us are going to play on both.
#4 Guest_mrcrawdad_*
Posted 25 December 2009 - 08:40 PM
lovilla, on Dec 25 2009, 02:47 AM, said:
this happens to me too. i practice on my 9ft and for hours and then play league one a week on a 7 ft. in the beginning of the year, i totally sucked in league and got fairly frustrated. but i don't think the answer is not to practice on the 9ft table and the answer is not to stop playing league. i think its like most things and the more you play on both tables, the better you will play on both tables. you are probably going from a table that plays faster with better rails and fewer clustered balls to a slower table with dead rails and everything tied up. it'll get easier. its the nature of the beast, most of us are going to play on both.
Seven foot tables are usually played with a heavier ball and rails that are somewhat inconsistent and the game of eight ball.
The game itself is usually the problem for mid -level advancement.
Making balls is not what you need to practice when you hit a certain level. Let the opponent break and run out six balls and usually the game is over.
The balls are blockers on the small table.,and you don't start your run until you know you can go all the way.
The subtle winning strategies on a 7 foot table usually aren't decided by shooting ball in holes,thus practicing ball potting , but rather safety play and breaking up and making clusters.
This practice alone should stay on the seven footers to learn the maneuvers required.
You should also try to get on a team that has a strong 7ft. table shooter that also gives you the appropriate coaches when needed,
Mrcrawdad
#5
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Posted 28 December 2009 - 05:40 PM
Some differences:
The CB on bar-boxes (AKA pay machines) are heavier than the rest of the balls. This makes draw difficult.
The corners on the corner pockets are often cut at 45 degrees rather than the 52 degree cut on "real tables" (114 degree included angle). This makes rattles less likely and simultaneously makes the pocket more forgiving and smaller.
The shelf on the pockets are short, making the pockets forgiving--especially at the side pockets.
The rails are at best inconsistent.
The flatness of the tables are at best inconsistent.
The felt is generaly slower than crap and fuzzier than a shedding cat in 103dF heat.
There will be a lot more throw on the old clay balls than on new aramith balls. So play less english, less speed, and less rail, but more draw, and a little less follow.
The tips of the corners at pockets are crap, don't use any rail within 1" of a corner--the bounce will not be true--even if the rubber is OK-ish.
However, If you are dropping balls on long shots on a 9-footer, yo should have no problem dropping balls on the 7 footer--everything is a easier shot (excepting rails). So practice (and accentuate) shooting without using the rails at all to get ready for the bar box.
A 9-footer with Simonis 860 will be about as fast as a 7-footer with felt about 1/2 way through the life of the felt.
Always run the CB up and down the table with your eye at rail height so you can see if the bar box is level. Figure out how unlevel it is, and use this info to compensate shots that require either CB or OB rolling at slow speeds.
Safety play is considerably easier on bar boxes--so add more to your game--be wary of the slow felt and make sure one ball touches a rail.
Bring your own stick and chalk.
The CB on bar-boxes (AKA pay machines) are heavier than the rest of the balls. This makes draw difficult.
The corners on the corner pockets are often cut at 45 degrees rather than the 52 degree cut on "real tables" (114 degree included angle). This makes rattles less likely and simultaneously makes the pocket more forgiving and smaller.
The shelf on the pockets are short, making the pockets forgiving--especially at the side pockets.
The rails are at best inconsistent.
The flatness of the tables are at best inconsistent.
The felt is generaly slower than crap and fuzzier than a shedding cat in 103dF heat.
There will be a lot more throw on the old clay balls than on new aramith balls. So play less english, less speed, and less rail, but more draw, and a little less follow.
The tips of the corners at pockets are crap, don't use any rail within 1" of a corner--the bounce will not be true--even if the rubber is OK-ish.
However, If you are dropping balls on long shots on a 9-footer, yo should have no problem dropping balls on the 7 footer--everything is a easier shot (excepting rails). So practice (and accentuate) shooting without using the rails at all to get ready for the bar box.
A 9-footer with Simonis 860 will be about as fast as a 7-footer with felt about 1/2 way through the life of the felt.
Always run the CB up and down the table with your eye at rail height so you can see if the bar box is level. Figure out how unlevel it is, and use this info to compensate shots that require either CB or OB rolling at slow speeds.
Safety play is considerably easier on bar boxes--so add more to your game--be wary of the slow felt and make sure one ball touches a rail.
Bring your own stick and chalk.
#6
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Posted 02 December 2011 - 11:48 AM
It's mostly in your head . On a 9 ft you must play better shape . bar table the shots are easier to reach and make . Better players have the advantage on a larger table because of the shape aspect . Don't just throw the balls out and practice missin' or that's what you'll be good at . Practice with some drills , not as much fun , but way more productive . Relax and keep your head down , stay still way after the balls are struck . Most of all have some fun , it's a great game and your only as good as your competition .
Life is short , so play hard . If you don't shoot the balls in , you don't get paid . It's not the amount , it's the principal .
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