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Chipped slate

#1 User is offline   Kevin 

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 03:10 PM

Larry,
So I picked up my table this past weekend. It's a 70's vintage Brunswick Heritage. I took a buddy of mine who has moved 50+ tables.
Whoever set up the table used Bondo to seal the slate seams, but with too much hardener. We worked on getting just one slab to move for about 25 minutes. When we finally got it to separate, the slate chipped in a couple places. Oddly enough, the other one didn't chip. The chips are about 3 inches long and about 1/8th of an inch deep along the seam on one side of the middle slab.
My question is: what do folks use to fill in similar chips? I've seen references to Vel-Mix and also something called "Jade Stone." Do you have any experience fixing chips?
I've got some reconditioning to do on the wood parts of the table so I won't be setting it up for probably another two weeks. Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
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#2 User is offline   FASTLARRY 

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 03:34 PM

View PostKevin, on Sep 28 2009, 04:10 PM, said:

Larry,
So I picked up my table this past weekend. It's a 70's vintage Brunswick Heritage. I took a buddy of mine who has moved 50+ tables.
Whoever set up the table used Bondo to seal the slate seams, but with too much hardener. We worked on getting just one slab to move for about 25 minutes. When we finally got it to separate, the slate chipped in a couple places. Oddly enough, the other one didn't chip. The chips are about 3 inches long and about 1/8th of an inch deep along the seam on one side of the middle slab.
My question is: what do folks use to fill in similar chips? I've seen references to Vel-Mix and also something called "Jade Stone." Do you have any experience fixing chips?
I've got some reconditioning to do on the wood parts of the table so I won't be setting it up for probably another two weeks. Any advice you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.




I always use bondo instead of bee's wax. But when you move and have to dig it out, it takes more work. Table repair guys have a fit, when I make them use it. That's the problem with buying an old table, there are always slate and wood problems that need repairs. You could always just buy another slate, most table dealers have extras sitting around.
"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.com
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#3 User is offline   Kevin 

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 04:21 PM

View PostFASTLARRY, on Sep 28 2009, 04:34 PM, said:

I always use bondo instead of bee's wax. But when you move and have to dig it out, it takes more work. Table repair guys have a fit, when I make them use it. That's the problem with buying an old table, there are always slate and wood problems that need repairs. You could always just buy another slate, most table dealers have extras sitting around.


I do have a line on some another slate. I may pick them up for nothing; the folks want them out of their storage shed.

I was extremely skeptical about this particular specimen when I heard about it's age; it was close enough to give it a look without much time investment, so I grabbed my buddy and we hauled ass over there.
The underframe of this thing is massive, and treated well for moisture. Didn't wiggle a bit, and the rails were really in good shape. Cushions were replaced a year ago along with the cloth. It was S860, but the owner had "set things" on the table that had stained it a little. Plus he drew lines on it for various shot setups (strange.) So I'll be replacing it here in the next few weeks. When we spoke, you had mentioned the Camel color, and I think that will be the ticket.

The reason I want to recondition this bad boy is so the trim on the wood parts of the table (skirts, visible frame, and legs) will match the decor of the bar I'm finishing in my house.
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#4 User is offline   FASTLARRY 

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 05:53 PM

View PostKevin, on Sep 28 2009, 05:21 PM, said:

I do have a line on some another slate. I may pick them up for nothing; the folks want them out of their storage shed.

I was extremely skeptical about this particular specimen when I heard about it's age; it was close enough to give it a look without much time investment, so I grabbed my buddy and we hauled ass over there.
The underframe of this thing is massive, and treated well for moisture. Didn't wiggle a bit, and the rails were really in good shape. Cushions were replaced a year ago along with the cloth. It was S860, but the owner had "set things" on the table that had stained it a little. Plus he drew lines on it for various shot setups (strange.) So I'll be replacing it here in the next few weeks. When we spoke, you had mentioned the Camel color, and I think that will be the ticket.

The reason I want to recondition this bad boy is so the trim on the wood parts of the table (skirts, visible frame, and legs) will match the decor of the bar I'm finishing in my house.



Yes, fixing up an old car, or a old table, its going to be, a labor of love.
"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.com
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#5 User is offline   Kevin 

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Posted 10 October 2009 - 10:29 AM

Update: I emailed the Whip Mix place and got them to send me some sample bags of Jade Stone. Good to go on on that. I'll set up the table in about three weeks.
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#6 User is offline   Kevin 

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Posted 03 December 2009 - 03:53 PM

update: For anyone considering Jade Stone for fixing chipped slate, just do it. I think that stuff sets up harder that the slate itself. Just be sure it isn't mounded up to high off the surface, or you'll be sanding for hours.

I'll post some pics of the table in the next week or so.
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#7 User is offline   FASTLARRY 

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Posted 03 December 2009 - 07:19 PM

View PostKevin, on Dec 3 2009, 03:53 PM, said:

update: For anyone considering Jade Stone for fixing chipped slate, just do it. I think that stuff sets up harder that the slate itself. Just be sure it isn't mounded up to high off the surface, or you'll be sanding for hours.

I'll post some pics of the table in the next week or so.



Great if it worked, tell us the site and the cost of it.
"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.com
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#8 User is offline   Kevin 

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Posted 14 December 2009 - 10:35 AM

View PostFASTLARRY, on Dec 3 2009, 07:19 PM, said:

Great if it worked, tell us the site and the cost of it.


The site:
Jade Stone product page

click on the link on the right side of the panel that says "Sample Request". It helps to have a company name to fill in, I think :P A nice lady did call after a couple weeks; when I told her what it was for she was fascinated to learn that it could be used for fixing slate pool tables!


The Heritage is done, finally!
Attached File  BrunswickHeritage.jpg (443.76K)
Number of downloads: 9

Refinshed the lower frame and the rails, new S860 cloth in Camel, new side skirts.
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#9 User is offline   FASTLARRY 

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Posted 15 December 2009 - 12:06 PM

If its just a crack, nothing real serious, you might go to pep boys first and use bondo. It will be easier to work with, easier to sand down and mold. I use it to seal the crack between the slates and it fills in and sets up real hard.

The Jade Stone is a powder of crushed rock, you mix with water and it sets up just like rock. You have about 5-7 minutes to work with it and it sets up in 10 minutes. 25 lbs of it should cost about $60. If you get in the yellow pages and call around to your local dental supply companies maybe you can go by and pick up a smaller quantity.
"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.com
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#10 User is offline   headmuses 

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Posted 17 December 2009 - 10:53 PM

Nice job Kevin, I'm always glad to see restoration work on a nice old table and to see someone recycling instead of tossing and buying new. Table looks great.

Merry Christmas

Headmuses.
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