Cleaning cloth

CLOTH HOW TO CLEAN IT

11 pages, 10-18-06, REV 1-9-07, CR, Fast Larry Guninger all rights reserved, published in numerous internet pool sources.

We will teach you 3 ways to clean your cloth which are approved by Simonis, the leading expert in the game and the largest supplier of cloth world wide with over 3 centuries of experience. What you are about to read is the bible on this subject.
To clean your new Simonis cloth, just brush it. Do buy a nice horsehair bed brush, and a strong narrow thin brush to go under the rails. Do not call it felt, it is not. It is and should be called cloth. To go cheap buy a Wisk broom from Kmart that looks like a kitchen broom but its only 10” long with no handle. You use it to sweep out your carpets in your car and it’s very effective in moving dirt especially under the rails. The straw breaks off and you have to pick them off the cloth so this is not recommended plus the ends are sharp.
Pool brushes come in many qualities and prices. They all work well but the high end horse hair brush will last for many years and its ends are soft on the cloth. They are well worth their high cost.
Cleaning the cloth on your table is perhaps the most important and the most frequent task necessary to maintain your table’s high performance. As billiard cloth is the most contacted and exposed part of your table, it often becomes the dirtiest. Keeping the cloth free of dust, chalk, and any other foreign material is important. Material left on billiard cloth not only esthetically unpleasing, it can also become distracting to a player during a shot or even affect the course of a ball in play and can cause the cloth to wear more quickly. Remember chalk is nothing but dirt in a wrap so the more of it you get on your table the balls rolling over it grind down the cloth fibers faster and also the dirt wears off the finish of your balls. In a few years the balls will actually wear down in size and become unofficial size which can change the way your cuts are made. It’s like the rock in the river stream that gets worn down in time by the water which is the same effect. So to protect your investment in your $200 Cloth and your new pro $200 set of balls by brushing your cloth before each day of play. You new table is like your car, it requires regular maintenance.
TABLE COVER.
You need to acquire a cover you put over the table after play is finished to keep off dust floating in the air. It also helps protect the cloth when you set things on the table. These range in cost from very cheap thin plastic to the backed high quality fiber covers which look like leather but are an imitation. It is important to get a cover that fits. Some of the cheaper ones barely go over the pockets and can slip off easily. A better cover goes on nice and easy and is removed the same way.
Whether a plastic, nylon, or naugahyde cover is used or a basic bed sheet is draped over the table, they all prevent dust and dander from settling on the cloth. Thicker covers such as naugahyde give added protection not only to the cloth, but to the rails as well. This is especially important if anything is to be placed on top of the table, such as a table tennis conversion top, and is highly recommended if the table is to be exposed to cats that have not been de-clawed. Besides dust and animals, sunlight is the next greatest enemy of billiard cloth. If at all possible, a table should not be placed in direct sunlight. Ultra violet radiation from the Sun and from fluorescent light bulbs will fade the cloth over time, and the table should be covered at all times, when not in use. Heat can kill the rubber in the rails and they can go dead. Never call these bumpers, they are called cushions.
CHALK TO USE.
One of the ways you can keep your cloth cleaner is to use the proper chalk. If you have any blue cloth, use the blue masters. If you have green, use the green chalk, or many players feel the blue plays better than green and it will not show up badly on a darker pool hall green type cloth. Red cloth you must use red chalk, if you use blue it will trash the cloth and you can see it every where. If you use the light beige or the slightly darker camel cloth using blue would trash it badly and it would be very hard to clean it off. You must use the gold, tan or grey chalk. A lot of players use tan chalk on a blue cloth because they think the chalk shows up less on their fingers. They will trash a cloth so they don’t get blue on their fingers that washes off, that is stupid beyond belief. If you learn how to chalk right, you never get chalk on your fingers.
NO POWDER.
Do not have one of these big chalk cubes on a stick on the wall you can rub your hands on or a powder dispenser where you push a lever and it comes out the bottom on your hands. If you have them, remove them. You will get players who are power pigs and do not know how to put powder on their hands so it does not get on the cloth. When they leave the table will be trashed and white powder will be every where. The table will then need to be brushed and cleaned with a damp towel. People will ask for powder. Offer to sell them a glove. Sell these little bags of powder that has a very fine grain so if they use too much it’s easy to remove. If some guy comes in with a can of baby powder and begins trashing your table ban it and its use.
Your new pool or billiard table is an expensive investment. You’ll want to take care of it so you can get the longest possible life from the cloth and be able to pass the table down through the generations. We have assembled the definitive knowledge base of pool table care tips and tricks. A few easy steps can keep table looking and playing as good as new for years and years to come.
HOW TO BRUSH. How to clean method #1.
Brushing your table cloth is the most recommended technique for cleaning billiard cloth, as it is the least invasive and manages to remove the majority of material. The type of brush used should have either nylon or horse hair bristle. The length of the brush can range from nine to twelve inches, a larger brush recommended for larger tables, as they get the job done faster. A person should start brushing from the end of the table that has the “baulk” line or break line and the name plate, which is most commonly referred to as the “head” of the table or where you break the balls from. Brushing should be in one direction only, from head to the “foot” of the table.
This is most important when dealing with snooker cloth. Snooker cloth has what is called “nap”. Nap is a term used to denote the direction of a cloths weave. Balls traveling against the nap will move differently then traveling with the nap. Pool cloth is non-directional, hence has no nap. It is still wise to brush pool cloth in one direction, as it puts the least amount of stress on the cloth, stretching the cloth in only one direction. It is also the most efficient. The amount of force applied to the brush should also be regulated to prevent the cloth from stretching too much. Use only as much pressure as required for all the bristles to make contact with the cloth, no more, no less. We recommend that a table’s cloth should be brushed after every ten hours of play or at minimum once a week. If the table is left uncovered, more frequent brushing may be required
Begin at the head rail and brush down table it is just that simple and it only takes a minute to have a nice table ready to go.
Cochran’s 725 club which was one of the top places in the country prior to WWII ran by a world champion and hall of famer in San Francisco had a boy carry your balls to your table and he brushed the table down before you began play. He would brush with his left hand and wipe the cloth with a towel with his right hand always moving down table with the nap. The brush raised the fibers and his cloth was laying them back down. He would then wipe your balls clean with a dry towel. He would then set them up to play, or rack them and leave. That was how a first class joint used to do it.
Today’s pool halls have become more like bars and clubs and the service has really tanked over the years. If you want to run a first class place the tables should be cleaned every morning before you open up and each set of balls should be wiped clean by hand. Take each ball one at a time out and rub them around in a towel which gets the dirt and chalk off of them. That should be the minimum. You do not need any ball cleaning machine. When you see a table later in the day or evening get dirty, somebody should be sent over to clean it up.
If you run any kind of tournament where they play in 2 hour shifts, the tables and balls should be cleaned before each session.
We recommend that a table’s cloth should be brushed after every ten hours of play or at minimum once a week for the home owner. If the table is left uncovered, more frequent brushing may be required. The pool hall should brush the tables at least twice a day.
Lint Brushes. Although this is a very effective way to remove material from cloth, as it does not pull on the cloth significantly and gets a lot of the harder to reach particles, it is not a recommended practice. Frequent brushing and the occasional vacuuming are just as effective, and not nearly as costly,

HOW TO VACCUM. How to clean method #2.

Do not use a very powerful floor model. The suction could pull up the fibers too much. Just use a good model meant for light duty and one that has attachments. One with a brush and a narrow long slit you can get up under the rails with. Brushing is good but you are mostly just moving the dirt around and shoving some of it into the pockets but to get more of it you now must vacuum as well.
Vacuuming a table, if done with care, is an excellent way to remove stubborn dust, chalk, and pet dander from a cloth, even pulling debris resting on the slate through the cloth. This should be done in one direction, just like brushing. A brush attachment must always be used, never use straight suction or rotating bristles, as these will pull on and stretch the cloth. You should vacuum your home cloth at least once a week, maybe twice if your play is heavy. A commercial room should brush and then vacuum every morning before play begins.
Water or felt Spray. How to clean method #3 & #4.
#3. WATER
It does not hurt simonies so do not be afraid to use it. Simonis is made with the same cloth your business suit is made out of. It is not damaged if you get caught out side in the rain. It dries and is fine the next day. Same thing with your pool cloth. The brush pushes some off but leaves it under the cloth. The vacuum suck some out but does nothing about the dirt pressed into the fibers by the pressure of the rolling balls. There is only one way to remove that. H20, simple water. Take an old towel and soak it in water, then squeeze it where it barely dripping and start at the top like the brush and wipe down table. When you get to the side pockets, add more water and flip the towel. When you get done you will not believe the chalk dirt you removed. Your towel will be trashed and a different color. Toss it in the washing machine and use it over and over. You will need to wait 5 to 10 minutes until the water dries until you can resume play. Under the cloth is the slate which is a piece of rock so there is nothing to damage.
#4 FELT CLEANER
Most people prefer to use it because when you spray the light foam out of a can on it does clean better than water. It dries in a minute and you do not have to wait to play. It does not slow down the speed of the cloth like water does. It smells really nice going on and removes that old dirt smells from the cloth. You use a tool like a wide brush and you wipe up and down using 4 paths and the special cloth tool picks up all the dirt and you then just wash it out in the sink and its reusable. There is a 2nd special mico fabric towel to pick up chalk dust and powder. This is now approved by Simonis and is being used on the pro tours and every one loves this new product. It is called quick clean and you can acquire it at the best and lowest prices on the net at:
www.billiards-superstore.com
SPILL
People will spill drinks on your cloth, it happens to every one. Mop it up with a cloth. Then flood that area with water, mop up again. That should remove the stain and the ring. If that does not then search the aisles of the cleaning materials in the stores and good luck. You should have a simple rule, set a drink or cig on my rail and you are out of here, banned, bye bye. Mostly drunks and bozos do these things.
IRONING

This is only recommended on cloth snooker cloth with a nap. This is a great method for improving a stubborn nap, allowing the fibers to flatten, after being untangled from a good brushing. Only a special dry iron can be used, and should once more, be done in one direction, from head to foot. Again, this is only recommended for snooker cloth, and should only be performed by an experienced individual, as a mistake can be quite costly.

If you use water to clean your cloth you will experience that the water raises the fibers which slows down the cloth some. Play for an hour and the rolling balls will press it down and the old speed will return. If you want to eliminate that wait, then grab your wife’s iron she uses on your clothes and simply iron the cloth again like you brush one direction. The heat of the iron will pull out the moisture in the cloth and speed it up. If you are in a situation where it has been raining for several days and your cloth has slowed down you can iron it into a faster play speed. Just keep the iron moving and no problems will arise. Never sit the dry iron on the cloth for more than a few seconds or it will burn and ruin it. Be very careful with this.

RAIL BOLTS. Under each diamond or brad if you crawl under the table is a rail bolt. The constant impact of the balls on the rails causes them to loosen. When they do the banks fail to work and bank funny and will not repeat. You can hear the bank make a new funny thud which is not good. Get a ratchet wrench with a long extension and usually this will be an l/ 2” or 9/16th socket. Tighten down each rail bolt snug and watch those banks return to fast and true. Every 90 days check them. If you can turn them with your finger, that is bad. If one is missing, it must be replaced.

RE USE A CLOTH

A Friend has a 9’ table and he gives you his old cloth which has no tears and is not in bad shape and you have an 8’ table. Toss it in the washing machine on cold so it won’t shrink too much. Do not put it in the dryer as the heat will shrink it. Dry it on a clothes line. Then install it by flipping the cloth putting the old down side with no wear on it now up. It is a way to make a cloth do double duty for those on a budget and short on cash. It’s not perfect but it works. Realize it may shrink and probably will down a size where it used to fit a 9’ and will not go on an 8’. You will also fade the color out some. If you have a 9 and want to put it back on a 9 and come up a couple of inches short due to shrinkage put it back on, staple one end, apply two vice grips on the other end and tie bar bell weights to them and let them hang over night. It will stretch the cloth back.
Pilling is the term used for the little fuzz balls found on billiard cloth. This occurs mainly on newer cloth or cloth with a blended wool and nylon make-up, and does not go away after time by frequent brushing. This does affect ball play on a table, but it is negligible. It is more often just viewed as unpleasant to look at. If the pills, or little balls of cloth get to be a problem they can deflect the balls path into the pocket. Pilling is usually associated with buying or letting the installer put in substandard cheap house cloth. You get what you pay for. If any cloth pills, never use it ever again. Getting any cloth that pills is like buying a $20 pair of shoes and then complaining they hurt your feet. What do you expect?
Simonis worsted wool cloth does not encounter piling because all the short strands in this cloth have been removed and a tighter weave used, allowing no fibers to become separated from the cloth. This also results in a faster cloth and allows for much easier brushing. There is only one fine cloth to use, simonies, the cloth of champions. If you are a serious player, allow no substitute.
The Dreaded White Spots
White spots are common and can occur on billiard cloth by two means; miss-cueing and “ball burn”. If a player strikes the cue ball too low, the cue can slip and the tip comes into contact with the billiard cloth. This is called a miss-cue and results in wearing the cloth either by removing some of the fibers or, as a result of friction, burn the cloth. These burn marks can also be a result from harder shots, usually the break. When a cue ball is struck with a significant amount of force, it is pushed along the cloth for a brief moment, at incredible speeds. This creates friction and heats up the cloth. Since cloth is typically a wool and nylon blend, the heat created by the shot can melt some of the nylon. As wool has a higher melting point then nylon, the more wool content a cloth has, the less likely ball burn will occur. People buy a new table and want it to remain perfect, pristine and that in its self is a problem. It’s a pool table and it is going to get a terrific amount of abuse so get used to is wearing and looking worn. Like your car it will age and fall apart.
When my wife gets a new car she parks a block from the entrance to the stores so no car door will hit her and I tell her, hell get it out of the way, go kick a dent in the side of your car and move on with your life. In time, the car doors hit her, the shopping carts get lose and find her and she gets the little dings and dents all cars has. Your table is the same thing and your cloth is put on to die and to be replaced. Most get worn out and looking bad in a year or two so trying to keep it looking like day one brand new is impossible. Don’t even think about it.
After a few months all these white spots appear and people want to know what is causing them. Mostly poor play, poor technique and the wrong color cloth.
You will see most of them around where the cue ball is set when you break. You are breaking hitting down on the cue ball driving it into the cloth causing a little divot to occur which burns the dye out of the cloth causing a white mark. Other shots around the table are caused by the same thing. Take a lesson from a pro on how to shoot the cue level and these marks will be then minimized.
The worst cloths that show these marks are the darkest colors which I never recommend any one to use. The worst are black, very dark blue, burgundy, red. A guy buys a table and his wife wants to match the cloth to the wall paper. That is a huge mistake, don’t let her do this. Red is an awful color to play on, hell the red ball disappears. Dark blue or black is the same thing.
There are only a few colors I recommend you using. Standard pool hall green is great. Not that blue green or very dark green. This light green has been the standard of over 3 centuries. That is what the world UPA 9 ball tour uses, Simonis 860.
The best is the very light robin’s egg blue. It is very nice on the eyes and the lighter colors do not show the white burn marks as well. They have a new tourney blue out which is just a tad darker and that is what the 3-c tour and the IPT is using now as well as the women’s tour. It has my number one recommendation.
Gold cloth, actually there are two colors, the first one was beige, very light and again great on the eyes but be sure your pockets are black. If they are brown leather you will have trouble seeing the shot enter the pocket when you aim. The women’s tour has used this color moving to the slightly darker newer camel which I love. Burn marks do not appear on film even though the eye can see them, the camera can not. It is the best cloth to use but it’s like a very cool pair of white pants. They are a royal pain in the ass to wear because you can’t keep them clean because we live in a dirty world.
Tan chalk must be used and this is a problem as Tweeten does not sell the 12 packs in this color so you are stuck buying a gross of 144 pieces you don’t want to do or buying a 12 pack of Silver Cup which does not work or coat as well. This cloth should never be put in a pool room where bozos can trash it. If you have a private room where a bunch of kids can’t get on it, then I say go with it. It is very addictive and once you get into it you wonder why green cloth even exists any more. It is my favorite cloth.
Mosconi in his later years loved to show and film on it. This is the only cloth I now film on as well
Pool pockets have mostly been from plastic and snooker table pockets are almost always made from leather. Those that are not are typically commercial style plastic drop pockets that require no maintenance at all. Leather pockets react just like any other product made from leather, they can dry out and crack. Applying leather conditioning products to the external pocket, which includes everything but the basket, can prevent this. One should be careful not to come into contact with the tables cloth with any of the product used to condition the pocket. This is not a frequent requirement and should be performed once every six months, although it may be recommended more frequently in dryer climates. Leather is expensive so table companies begin to job shop this out into poor areas of Mexico and China and here comes the problems. At the US Open 2006 the diamond tables were putting black dots all over the balls because when ever a ball hit the back of the pocket the dye would stain the ball. Bad pockets from a bad source. They had to clean the balls every two hours. I have seen Brunswick pockets let the dye wear off on cues rubbing it causing the cue to be ruined. These are the top two table people and they are having problems so be aware of this.
The tables we sell on our web site do not have this problem and never have. Leather pockets have been slowly shrunk so they are now too narrow, you can barely get your hand down in them and some only hold 5 balls where they used to hold 10. They are saving leather and money by cheating you. The leather in the pockets is bad and hard so they never loosen up even though they tell you they will. When you run you’re hands down in them to retrieve balls the hard leather tears up your cuticles and finger nails. When you buy a table pay very close attention to the pockets because if you get the bad ones they can drive you nuts for years to come.
MASSES AND JUMP SHOTS
Nothing looks cooler and is more impressive then jumping the cue ball over another or having the cue ball spin in, out and around the other balls on the table, and nothing is more damaging to the cloth. Even if these types of shots are performed perfectly, which they very rarely are, they are still very damaging to billiard cloth. Usually the shots are not done incorrectly and the cue’s tip comes into contact with the cloth with great force, as to the nature of the attempted shot. This results in wearing holes in the cloth, and in worst cases, ripping a hole right through the cloth. As a table owner, it is recommended to enforce a house rule against these types of shots. It is by far the least expensive way of maintaining your cloth. These are pro level types of shots that should only be learned once the player reaches an APA level of 6 or 7 when he has full control of his game and cue. Masses and beginners do not mix. In your home do not let any one try them period.
In your pool room only let your better customers practice them when there is a table soon to be recovered and you don’t care if they shred that cloth. Jumps and Masses drive the cue ball down into the cloth causing a little divot. Shoot the same shot from that same place over and over and you soon have a hole to the slate and a problem. You can practice off a 2nd piece of cloth and that helps some but the shot is not the same. To practice masses and perfect them, expect to replace a $200 cloth and $200 to install it every 2 months. Expect to buy a $400 masse cue and wipe out a $150 shaft every month plus destroy $40 morri's every week. Learning how to master the masse is a very expensive shot to own and nobody in any room is going to allow you to trash their equipment so don’t even disrespect their place. Put in your own table and pay the price or do with out the shot.
RIP IN MY CLOTH
Mistakes like this happens to us all dude so don’t feel like the lone ranger. Some rips are caused by some kid trying to jump the ball by scooping under the cue ball. Some happen when at impact the tip comes off and the new sharp edge of the ferrule digs in. Some are jumps or Masses gone bad. There is not much you can do and short of replacing the cloth nothing you do will look nice or work well. Don’t even bother asking your kids who did it because they will lie like dogs and withstand torture with a cattle prod before they will own up they did it.
Melt some wax in the hole or use school glue. Get some of the spots they use to show you where to rack the one ball at. Cut that spot in a smaller circle to cover the hole and stick it over it. The balls will now roll over that area without deflection. Looks like hell but you are back in business.
Food, Drink, and Smoke
Billiard tables are a great source of entertainment. This usually involves in the consumption of many comfort foods, beverages, and in some cases tobacco. All of this should be kept as far away from a table as possible. Tobacco ash will stain and can burn the cloth. Never ever allow any one to hang a cig in their lips and bend over the cloth to shoot a shot. The ash will fall and burn a little hole in the cloth which later will enlarge. Just drop ashes from a lit cig into your palm and see. There is fire and you hand was burned just as the cloth would have been.
Cigarettes left on the table’s edge will burn the rail, leaving un-repairable marks. Spilt food and drink will also stain a table’s cloth. Condensation rings left by drinks, can damage the cloth or rails, and should not be left to rest on the table. The same goes for any form of foodstuffs. In general, if you or your guests are eating, drinking, or smoking, do so away from your billiard table. If you are playing at home or at a billiard parlor and brought your own balls never eat and play. Eat and sit down. When you are done, go into the bathroom and wash your hands and resume play. Do not get this hamburger or french-fry grease on the balls or they will begin to throw funny and you will begin to miss shots and not know why.
Contact with Table
Leaning heavily, standing, sitting, bumping, or lifting the table can have a detrimental effect. Any pressure on the table's playing surface will put pressure on the seams between the slate. This slate is sealed upon installation and any pressure can crack these seams. A cracked seam can be felt through the cloth and will not only effect the direction of a ball in play, but will also wear the cloth from underneath. Long or difficult shots should be assisted by a bridge or rest; a player should never sit on a table to make a shot.
Sitting on the rail is a serious problem and if the persons butt over hangs the cushion which it usually does that weight can bust the glue holding the rail cushion down and now all the banks in that area will fail. Never ever allow any one to sit on a rail, that is a no no.

If an owner requires a table to be moved, they should employ a certified billiard mechanic to prevent any damage being done to the table. Not only can any of the above damage the table, it will most certainly make the table un-level. An un-level table is very difficult to play on, as the balls do not react as expected. If a table becomes un-level, by whatever means, an owner should contact a certified billiard mechanic. Leveling a table is a complex process, and depending on your table can involve either leg leveling or shimming of the slate playing surface or the legs.
Some tips on installation, do not let them use bee’s wax, which is cheap and fast for them. It will dissolve a year later and then the seem will no longer be filed and when the ball rolls over it you will see it bump up, or even slow, hit the seem and reverse course.
Tell the installer to go up to Pep boys and buy and use bondo. If he says he does not have any, go buy if for him. They just do not want to use it because they feel they will be back a year from now to recloth and they do not want to go to the trouble to dig it out. It will not go away like wax will.
Table companies also screwed us over the years trying to save pennies by making the table any where from 1” to 3” lower than they used to be at the turn of the century. They just made the legs shorter saving wood and money. That is not in your best interest as you now have to bend over further which cause more back strain. Jim Rempe world champion and hall of famer said when they began to lower these tables in the early 80’s his back pain began which soon took him out of the games top spot and into early retirement.
Solution, build you self 1’ square blocks of wood 1 to 2” tall and set your table legs on them. Now your table is higher up and your playing experience is more comfortable. Glue a piece of 50 grit sand paper where the leg sits to prevent it from sliding or slipping off center. A good table should be heavy and when you lean into it for a shot, or even shove into it this should not move at all. If it does, you have a cheap bad table that is too light. They cheat you this way by making them look nice but underneath they are all particle board which is light and falls apart badly. That is why the tables I sell have none of this. They are all solid hard wood hand carved the way tables used to be made years ago.
Any of the products mentioned in this article can be acquired from the fast larry billiards store by going into www.billiards-superstore.com www.fastlarrypool.com
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There you can find these quality pool tables all hard wood, hand carved, 3 piece 1” slate, premium leather pockets for under $2000. We have the lowest prices on all simonis cloths, new plastic or leather pockets, felt cleaner, table lights, brushes, chalk, you name it, we have it. Cool cues and cases as well.

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