[RockyD]

Well I know to make a rail shot u hit the ball and the rail at the same time. Also I often use a little inside english to hold the object ball to the rail. At one time I nailed these all day. I noticed however since I haven't played in a while I am struggling with the rail shot. Any pointers on how to master it?

[MitchAlsup]

If you are having trouble with a shot (any shot) then set that shot up and shoot it 50* times witout missing. What you need to avoid is changing the shot from shot to shot. Thus, apply the same english every time, leave the cue ball wihtin a couple of inches of the same spot every time, and pot the ball with the same speed all the times -- or it does not count as making the same shot in a row.

(*) might want to start with spotting the shot 10 times in a row without a miss, and work up to 50 times in a row without a miss.

[9BallroadPro]

MitchAlsup, on Feb 28 2009, 02:08 PM, said:

If you are having trouble with a shot (any shot) then set that shot up and shoot it 50* times witout missing. What you need to avoid is changing the shot from shot to shot. Thus, apply the same english every time, leave the cue ball wihtin a couple of inches of the same spot every time, and pot the ball with the same speed all the times -- or it does not count as making the same shot in a row.

(*) might want to start with spotting the shot 10 times in a row without a miss, and work up to 50 times in a row without a miss.

If position is not an issue, always use running english, and barely hit the rail first. Never try and hit the rail and the ball at the same time.

[Artmustel]

9BallroadPro, on Mar 26 2009, 12:37 PM, said:

If position is not an issue, always use running english, and barely hit the rail first. Never try and hit the rail and the ball at the same time.

What is the adequate procedure when object ball is very close, but not frozen to rail?

[Demondrew]

Artmustel, on Nov 25 2009, 06:44 PM, said:

What is the adequate procedure when object ball is very close, but not frozen to rail?

I just pretend the rail is not there and make a pure cut shot. It just happens to go down the rail.
Andy

[Artmustel]

Thanks, Demondrew

[Fast_Freddie]

Most new players don't bother to get up close and check to see if the object ball is in fact frozen to the rail. Being close to the rail is not the same as being "frozen" to the rail. Put your hand over the ball and see if you can see any gap in between the ball and the rail. If you do, treat it like there's no rail and cut it. If it's actually frozen, hit the ball and rail simultaneously with some runnng english. If you really want to make it harder, try drawing the cue ball back when a ball is frozen to the rail

[coolcuedude]

mrcrawdad, on Dec 29 2009, 02:41 PM, said:

Just mt two cents but I wouldn't suggest hitting the ball and rail at the same time on any table with tight pockets. The cleanest hit would be inside English with just a hair of rail first. Ball does not have to be froze to the rail but if it is it makes the shot easier. If it is a little off the rail like very little you can still cinch it with the inside English.
Unfortunately outside English for position on tight pockets will sometimes result in a jawed ball.,especially on parallel rail pocket tables like Diamond.
Remember, the game is being changed to tight pockets and the nuances of playing position with the big stroke is being changed to a more exact potting delivery.
Mrcrawdad

fl wrote several articles on this I studied. He said, yes, ok, if you can hit the rail and ball at the same time, but few can or do. Most either hit the ball first, or the rail first and rarely do it righyt. So its better to slightly hit the rail first using running english, which kicks the ball towards the pocket and keeps it on the rail. From the kitchen, where you break, shooting down the right long rail, running would be left on the cue ball. He also said not to use or say outside or inside, because people get confused and get them turned around. inside might mean left to you, but to another, it might mean right.
Same shot, down the right long rail, right would be inside reverse, which would be wrong, because it kicks the object ball out of the pocket into the far left point and blips it out. Using left english, running, is correct, it transfers right running english on the object ball holding it on the rail and reducing the blip out. Once you understand these, the blip out begin to reduce, unless you shoot too hard.

[MitchAlsup]

It dependes on the angles involved. Consider tow rail shots, one straight, the other at a significant cut:

A: OB on rail, CB within an inch of the rail, shot straight down the rail. Here the angle is straight enogh that yo can play this as if the rail were not involved--and you would miss. The correct shot, here, is draw and outside english (towards the rail). The draw and outside english causes the OB to massé down the rail clinging to it.

B: OB on rail, CB at any significant angle: Here you touch the rail first with running englich. The CB touches the rail first and then hits the OB away from the pocket slightly, but the running english throws the OB back towards the pocket.

So depending on the actual angle the spin direction reverses. Its just one of those things you need in your grab bag of shots.

[MitchAlsup]

mrcrawdad, on Dec 31 2009, 10:55 PM, said:

Just my two cents response but once a ball is an inch off the real as in your shot A it is no longer a rail shot and can be played Dependant of where you need the cue ball and what is optimum.

Its the CB that is 1" off the rail not the OB, the OB is touching the rail.