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Slate Replacement

#1 User is offline   tom 

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 04:58 PM

I am rebuilding an 8' Pool table. Bought one in early 80s and never put it together. Slate deteriorated, so did side panels. The Gandy frame I think is in excelent condition.
I bought an old Frederick Willy's for the slate. Wanted 1" but will accept this 3/4", only $75. Surprise... the slate seems to be somewhat of a floating design. First question. Should I glue frame to the slate? If s, what glue and what should I use for framing?
I will stop here and save you and me some time.
Thank you,
Tom Poteet
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#2 User is offline   FASTLARRY 

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 08:31 PM

View Posttom, on Jan 19 2009, 04:58 PM, said:

I am rebuilding an 8' Pool table. Bought one in early 80s and never put it together. Slate deteriorated, so did side panels. The Gandy frame I think is in excelent condition.
I bought an old Frederick Willy's for the slate. Wanted 1" but will accept this 3/4", only $75. Surprise... the slate seems to be somewhat of a floating design. First question. Should I glue frame to the slate? If s, what glue and what should I use for framing?
I will stop here and save you and me some time.
Thank you,
Tom Poteet


Never ever accept 3/4", the ball jumps too much, back out, or toss it, and find 1"...Who ever sold you 3/4 screwed you.
"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.com
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#3 User is offline   tom 

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:34 PM

View PostFASTLARRY, on Jan 19 2009, 08:31 PM, said:

Never ever accept 3/4", the ball jumps too much, back out, or toss it, and find 1"...Who ever sold you 3/4 screwed you.


It was not the sellers fault. I have to take the blame here. I also will have to go with what I have for the time being, maybe later. I am 73 going on 16, retired and play 9 ball on an APA team.
By the way can you furnish 2 colors to recover a table (rails and slate?)
Also what is the thickest slate that you would choose to play on?
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#4 User is offline   FASTLARRY 

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Posted 19 January 2009 - 10:58 PM

View Posttom, on Jan 19 2009, 10:34 PM, said:

It was not the sellers fault. I have to take the blame here. I also will have to go with what I have for the time being, maybe later. I am 73 going on 16, retired and play 9 ball on an APA team.
By the way can you furnish 2 colors to recover a table (rails and slate?)
Also what is the thickest slate that you would choose to play on?



I have 12 colors, but I only stock and push 4 or 5, the rest are too dark.

Pool I want 1", because that is all that is out there, years ago it was 1 l/4" I was put on a connely 2" and I hated it, I could not jump the ball, and it took away one of my shots.

Billiards 2", because you do not want the ball to ever jump.
"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.com
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#5 User is offline   Larry 

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 08:41 AM

View Posttom, on Jan 19 2009, 04:58 PM, said:

I am rebuilding an 8' Pool table. Bought one in early 80s and never put it together. Slate deteriorated, so did side panels. The Gandy frame I think is in excelent condition.
I bought an old Frederick Willy's for the slate. Wanted 1" but will accept this 3/4", only $75. Surprise... the slate seems to be somewhat of a floating design. First question. Should I glue frame to the slate? If s, what glue and what should I use for framing?
I will stop here and save you and me some time.
Thank you,
Tom Poteet

Hi Tom. Now I dont know a great deal about table assembly, but it would seem to me that it would be better to just shim the slate with wood instead of glueing it to the frame.
" I'll race you to the Waffle House fat man "
Jimmy Mataya to Joe Kerr at the Glass city 9 ball open.
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#6 User is offline   tom 

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:29 AM

View PostLarry, on Jan 26 2009, 08:41 AM, said:

Hi Tom. Now I dont know a great deal about table assembly, but it would seem to me that it would be better to just shim the slate with wood instead of glueing it to the frame.


The more I look at this table the more I admire the engineering of it. The side rails are mounted to the edges of the slate clamping the slate between the rails and a piece of narrow planking. There are no holes in the slate. The floating just seems right. I have not seen so much support of any slate as I see here. I think that it might just make up the difference in a 1" slate. So I intend to put a few more cross pieces under the slate for added support.
So I think you are right ... no glue, and thank you for your input.
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#7 User is offline   tom 

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:29 AM

View PostLarry, on Jan 26 2009, 08:41 AM, said:

Hi Tom. Now I dont know a great deal about table assembly, but it would seem to me that it would be better to just shim the slate with wood instead of glueing it to the frame.


The more I look at this table the more I admire the engineering of it. The side rails are mounted to the edges of the slate clamping the slate between the rails and a piece of narrow planking. There are no holes in the slate. The floating just seems right. I have not seen so much support of any slate as I see here. I think that it might just make up the difference in a 1" slate. So I intend to put a few more cross pieces under the slate for added support.
So I think you are right ... no glue, and thank you for your input.
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#8 User is offline   tom 

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 09:37 AM

View PostFASTLARRY, on Jan 19 2009, 10:58 PM, said:

I have 12 colors, but I only stock and push 4 or 5, the rest are too dark.

Pool I want 1", because that is all that is out there, years ago it was 1 l/4" I was put on a connely 2" and I hated it, I could not jump the ball, and it took away one of my shots.

Billiards 2", because you do not want the ball to ever jump.


I will not miss jumping very much, the rooms around here do not allow it anyway. I Would like to learn but I am only 73 ... there is still plenty of time. :)
Thank you.
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#9 User is offline   FASTLARRY 

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 10:52 AM

View Posttom, on Jan 26 2009, 09:37 AM, said:

I will not miss jumping very much, the rooms around here do not allow it anyway. I Would like to learn but I am only 73 ... there is still plenty of time. :)
Thank you.



The problem is when hitting force follows, when the ball jumps up, you lose all your power. You prevent it jumping by hitting level with the table bed, and making a follow through that does not dip down and stays level for a foot past the ball.
"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.com
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#10 User is offline   tom 

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 04:54 PM

[quote name='FASTLARRY' date='Jan 26 2009, 10:52 AM' post='24912'
The problem is when hitting force follows, when the ball jumps up, you lose all your power. You prevent it jumping by hitting level with the table bed, and making a follow through that does not dip down and stays level for a foot past the ball.
[/quote]

I am getting confused. I thought you said that you lost one of your shots because you used jump shots. I use jump shots. Very small ones. I elevate the butt and jump over the edge of balls...nobody seems to notice, but jumping over a full ball is not allowed in the rooms here and not in APA. (I'm sure the better players know but they will not say anything because they approve and do the same thing.) Room owners should know better and let them have at it and make the flat shot mandatory on the break. Those break trails would not show up nearly so quickly on the next recover.

There are two players on my 9 ball team that I cannot convince to use a flat shot. Every shot is as if they are on the rail and have not learned to use a flat shot there. I have tried to tell and show but I get nowhere. I even showed them the spots (trails) from breaking that that is the reason for the trails.

Fast Larry: Can you give me a convincing argument to show these yahoos what they are missing? I would be most grateful. I like these guys and want them to do good. I am not a captain but I would be if my hearing was no so impaired.
Thanks everyone and good shooting. Stay down!! Stat Loose!!
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#11 User is offline   FASTLARRY 

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 05:24 PM

View Posttom, on Jan 26 2009, 04:54 PM, said:

[quote name='FASTLARRY' date='Jan 26 2009, 10:52 AM' post='24912'
The problem is when hitting force follows, when the ball jumps up, you lose all your power. You prevent it jumping by hitting level with the table bed, and making a follow through that does not dip down and stays level for a foot past the ball.


I am getting confused. I thought you said that you lost one of your shots because you used jump shots. I use jump shots. Very small ones. I elevate the butt and jump over the edge of balls...nobody seems to notice, but jumping over a full ball is not allowed in the rooms here and not in APA. (I'm sure the better players know but they will not say anything because they approve and do the same thing.) Room owners should know better and let them have at it and make the flat shot mandatory on the break. Those break trails would not show up nearly so quickly on the next recover.

There are two players on my 9 ball team that I cannot convince to use a flat shot. Every shot is as if they are on the rail and have not learned to use a flat shot there. I have tried to tell and show but I get nowhere. I even showed them the spots (trails) from breaking that that is the reason for the trails.

Fast Larry: Can you give me a convincing argument to show these yahoos what they are missing? I would be most grateful. I like these guys and want them to do good. I am not a captain but I would be if my hearing was no so impaired.
Thanks everyone and good shooting. Stay down!! Stat Loose!!


I carry 2 jump cues, and I know the thicker the slate, the harder it is to jump. 1" I have no problems with, 3/4, it gets even easier.
But it is also easier to jump a ball on a follow, which you dont want to. It happens so fast, most cant see it, but its there and you lose power.

Yes, jack up on any draw is good, never level, jack up on any follow is bad, always be level.
"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.com
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