[Pin]

It used to be a popular snooker shot when the big players still had to play on dodgy tables that rolled off.

You playe the shot with deep backspin, using more pace than you would normally need.

The backspin slows the CB down before it hits the OB, and so contacts the OB as if you'd played a slower shot.

You get the benefit of hitting the CB faster, so that it has less chance to roll off course. But you still get the softer contact you want on the OB.



It's a tough shot. I was working on it a bit today (I often have to play on dodgy tables, so it'd be a useful tool).

When I got it right, I felt like a cuesport god.

But it's hard to get it right consistently, and when you get it wrong, and the CB hits the OB too hard, that extra pace can do more damage than the table roll would have done (depending on the type of shot).



Are there any tips, tricks or advice that can help me make the drag shot a more consistent tool?

Or should I just accept the fact that it's a tough shot to use well, and so not rely on it unless I have to?

[FASTLARRY]

DRAG SHOT

4-17-00, Rev 1-28-05, 1-30-07, CR, Fast Larry Guninger all rights reserved. One page, published in DC, bpn, czm, upp, ppt, flp, btt, rsb.

Q: From the internet: I will use a downwards choppy stroke if I am trying to kill the cue ball with inside English for example, but otherwise I go straight through and upwards with my tip. To help me do this I look at the top of the object ball and try to touch it with my tip.

FL RESPONDS: Yes, Both are proper techniques I teach. I use and teach that same shut down stroke, it is called a drag shot, you can also hit it low with a soft draw that releases quick so when the Cue ball hits the object ball it will only roll forward an inch or so. On a longer shot you hit it harder which keeps the cue ball back sliding for several feet before it releases into a forward roll. If you can have it backsliding when it impacts the OB then it will stop and slowly creep forward just a little ways.

It is a wonderful way of shutting a shot down so it won't come in too hot. When the cue ball is going to be hitting a rail using very low inside check English helps kill it coming off of the rail when you must stop a shot short fast.
Every shot is different, every solution and technique is therefore different as well to the player I teach to play out of the box and by feel. He shoots what works. On some long shot you even put a little very low nip or poke on the cue ball. You can hit very hard with one tip below center and the cue ball comes off dead off the object ball. There are a number of very cool things you can do here if you play around with it and learn and master this shot I use a lot. This is an advanced shot used by the best players.

I start with beginners teaching them to stroke it and not poke it and once they become more skilled I teach them the little skids, stuns, pokes, dinks and bunts, pokes the top player has to be able to change tangent angles and to control the cue ball on a string.


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[Pin]

So presumably it's basically a tough shot that requires skill and practice, no shortcuts or tricks to the technique?


What kind of situations do you use the drag shot for?


And would you mind doing a cuetable for the rail shot you described above, so I can see what you mean?


Thanks

[FASTLARRY]

Pin, on Nov 25 2008, 07:11 PM, said:

So presumably it's basically a tough shot that requires skill and practice, no shortcuts or tricks to the technique?


What kind of situations do you use the drag shot for?


And would you mind doing a cuetable for the rail shot you described above, so I can see what you mean?


Thanks

Ah so Grasshopper, you put a heavy nip on the shot, it is basically a shut down shot. You use it in places where a slow roll might not work, on say a bad table, bad cloth, table rolls off, or a long shot the slow roll would be hard to control and guage but that is probably best. The drag shot works best close up, rarely more than 3 or 4' away. The better player knows by instinct how much nip to put on the ball. The CB rolls forward the most hit high, center hit reduces that, and below center can stop it dead. You want the CB to be sliding, with back spin on it, then release and roll forward, just before impact. That reduces the forward roll to a minimum.

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