Buying a used table!!

When you go to look at a used table these are the things you should look for ( although your local billiard table movers will be able to shed some light on specific problems with tables that are prevalent in your region ie. Duffrin in Canada, or Gandy's down south etc.)

This is a checklist you can print out and take with you when you go to look at a table (some are applicable to new table purchases and will be marked with an asterisk* if you would like to use them for that).
We will start at the top and work our way down as that is the best way to look at the table because if it has significant problems on the top there is no need to progress any farther, unless you are willing to foot the cost of those repairs.
I have also provided spaces so that you can get common repair quotes before hand to give you an accurate idea of the actual price total of the table should any of these repairs be required, and other spaces useful information for table comparisions.

*CLOTH : Look closely at the cloth as having to replace it can add alot of money to you bargain table purchase, 1). is it smooth looking and feeling (quality) or fluffy and ruff feeling ( cheap).

2). check for rips, tears, cuts and stains, pay particular attention to the mouth of the pockets where the cloth wraps from the top of the slate around under it, there will be vertical cuts from when the cloth was put on but any horizontal cuts will probably not allow the cloth to be reinstalled
( these are caused by balls bouncing off the back of the pocket and hitting the slate before dropping a good mechanic will install a small strip of cloth on the vertical part of the pocket mouth to help combat this), also check the break and rack areas for excessive wear and tears as these will also make reinstallation difficult if not impossible( small white friction burns are ok, being able to see the slate is not) quickly look over the rest of the cloth after checking these trouble spots.

3). check for worn out rail cloths, specificly the cushion nose where the ball contacts and the points of the pockets as these usually wear out faster than the rest of the rail cloth, also look for rips or tears on the top of the rail cloth, although they usually will not hinder play if the are small they are unsightly on your newly set up perfect playing NEW TO YOU TABLE.

--Cost of replacing cloth from local billiard store: cloth cost ________ Labour cost________

CUSHIONS: 1). walk around the table using your thumb and forefinger to gently squeeze the cushion rubber ( thumb on the outside of the rail, finger on the rubber) as it should be soft and plyable (think rubber or tennis ball), any hard spots (think hardball or hockey puck) will not bounce properly and cause the table to not play well and might need to be changed depending on what your tolerance for it is. DO NOT wiggle the rubber up and down as this might cause the rubber to come unglued and cause dead spots

2). take a ball and bounce it off every cushion in about 2 inch intervals, from one end to the other working your way around the table. Although not very scientific this is a good way to find any dead spots on the rubber where the cushion has become delaminated or unglued from the wood of the rail and needs to be repaired.

-- Cost of replacing cushion rubber from local billiard store:
Cost of rubber ______ Labour_______
NOTE: replacing the cushion rubber will require you to replace the cloth also so there is extra cost for you to consider.

RAILS/APRONS:1). you want to closely check the wood or veneer surface of the rails for damage ie. cigarette burns, stains or discolouration, dings or ball damage, veneer peel or cracks in the wood or finish and that all the diamonds are in place and undamaged. Also check to make sure all the rail hold down bolts are in place as missing bolts are usually a sign of stripped inserts( can be difficult to replace and expensive) or abuse such as picking up the table to move it etc. (wich is improper and harmful to the rails and possibly the slate).

2). check the aprons to make sure there are no cracks or splits in them that they are securely fastened to the table or the rails and not loose or missing any attaching screws or bolts etc. you don't want them to fall off once you get it home and set up and not damaged or discoloured in any way.

--Cost of repairing rails: If the rail bolts are missing or damaged I would suggest walking away from that particular table as the repairs are expensive or it will never play properly, if it is simply some sanding and stain that is your call on what you are comfortable with.

*FRAME: 1). lay down under the table and look at the thickness of the frame (Brunswick Gold Crowns and Diamond Pro Ams have 4-5 inch frames) the standard thickness of a well made wooden frame starts at about 1inch and goes up from there these are sturdy long lasting frames.

2). wooden frames are normally constructed from three materials, solid wood, plywood(with or without a veneer) and particleboard(with or without a veneer), they are listed in order of strength and longevity. Solid wood and plywood are acceptable particle board is to be avoided on the frame
(although it is ok for aprons and usually covered with a veneer).

3). method of construction is important with bolts dowels, dove tails and metal brackets attaching pieces usually being the best followed by wood screws, glue and staples.

-- Size of frame _____ and Type ________

LEGS: 1). they come in several types, pedastal legs (usually two solid leg one at each end of the table sometimes joined by a stretcher), individual legs (usually found at the four corners of a table, they can be square boxes, ball & claw, queen anne, and carved, the fancier the leg the more expensive it usually is. Each style of leg is ok as long as it is solid wood or plywood with a veneer and is solidly attached to the frame with bolts or metal brackets).

2). While under the table check the legs, if they are veneered check for delamination of the veneer and discolouration, on solid wood legs check for cracks and discolouration. Discolouration, delamination or veneer peel on any leg is usually a sign of water damage and can comprimise the leg (by softening the wood) or hide mold. If the leg is just delaminating because of old or inferior glue it can be reglued or reveneered.

--Cost of new legs from billiard repair store, wholesaler or ebay:
Cost of leg _____ Cost of Stain/glue______ Labour______

*SLATE: 1). pool table slate come in two standard sizes 3/4inch and 1inch with a wood backing, the average player will not notice the difference in playablity between the two, the major difference in in how cloth is installed on the two, on 3/4inch without a wood backer the cloth ins glued on and on 1inch with a wood backer the cloth is stapled on. Stapling the cloth will get it on tighter than glueing it but both methods when performed by a qualified mechanic will last a long time and play very well, and 3/4inch is usually cheaper to purchase new or used than 1inch is.

2). chips, cracks, breaks and divots can not be seen without the cloth being removed, I would suggest only putting a small deposit on a used table until it is taken apart so that if there is any severe damage you are only out a small amount of money not the whole amount and stuck with a useless table. Some mechanics can fix cracks, breaks, or divots, it is up to you if you want to let them try or just shop for another table.

--Slate thickness_____
-- Cost of repairing damaged slate is on a per case basis and must be quoted by a local mechanic ____

POCKETS: 1). there are three types of pockets, leather, plastic and ball return. With leather pockets you want to look for damage to the leather around the irons and look closely at the webbing to make sure they are not ripped and balls will not fall on the floor also are the webs stapled (difficult to get off and possible to damage especially if it has been moved before and they are weaked or if the are old and dried out) or screwed( very easy to remove and reinstall) and are they tight or loose when assembled( could be a sign of damage or improper assembly). Plastic pockets need to be checked for cracks or breaks and how they are installed screwed the the rail or nailed, have any screws or nails pulled through the plastic or out of the rail, plastic pockets are usually easy to replace and cheap although if there are big holes in the rail from multiple or improper installations the could be difficult to reinstall. Leather pockets are expensive to replace but are usually easy to install.

--Cost of pockets from local billiard retailer:
Leather pockets______ Plastic Pockets_____

TABLE COST______ + REPAIR COST______= TOTAL COST_______

COST OF NEW TABLE FROM LOCAL RETAILER_____
Table cost will be what the local market will bare.
Keep in mind this is a used table, if you want a like new table be prepared to pay more or buy a new table.

-- People sell tables for various reasons, lack of use, moving, does not fit the decor.
--Poolhalls sell pool tables for two reasons for the most part they are going out of business/down sizing or the tables are in such a state of disrepair that they can't make any money with them and the repair work out weights the money they make off of it.

ACCESSORIES: be sure to find out if balls, cues, cueracks, scorers and any other table relate items are included in the price or if they are extra.

Any other questions or comments feel free ask or respond and we will discuss them

Bern

The secret of success is to do the common things uncommonly well.
John D. Rockefeller

[ Edited by Big_Bad_Bern on 2007/3/15 18:41 ]

[ Edited by Big_Bad_Bern on 2007/3/15 18:42 ]

[ Edited by Big_Bad_Bern on 2007/3/15 18:43 ]

PoolChat: Buying a used table!! - PoolChat