[soccerblaze88]

does it let you do more draw/english on shots? or does it do nothing?

[seymore15074]

Quote

soccerblaze88 wrote:
does it let you do more draw/english on shots? or does it do nothing?

Probably, but at the cost of having a harder time hitting center ball. Have you ever missed a kick by accidentally putting english on the cue ball? Me too, and I would dred doing that often!

A good stroke and you can get all of the english you will ever need with a 13mm tip. Stick with the standards.

[codycox]

its actually easier with a 8 ball tip u can hit harder and u can actually get more draw/english because more of the tip is on the cue so u can hit lower without mis-cueing

[sofy60]

most snooker players use very small tips and they are amazing. Watch some snooker video sometime, you'll be amazed.

[MitchAlsup]

The size of the tip changes the amount of offset you need to use a particular amount of english, follow, or draw. Consider a really big flat tip--no english, follow or draw can be applied.

A large tip with a nickle radius will take a significant offset to apply english, follow, or draw, while a small tip with a dime radius will not need so much offset for the same amout of effect.

This is an effect you get used to, like you get used to the steering feel in your automobile. Some cars have faster relationship between the amount of steering wheel angle and the radius the car takes in the turn (Corvette), and some have a slower relationship (Mac Truck).

You can have a tip that is so small and so curved that it is hard to control the contact point precisely. Conversely, you can have a big fat flat tip that takes huge amounts of offset to even hit the cue ball off center. The former is good for snooker (played with smaller balls) while the later is great for breaking ('cause you want to hit the cue primarily in the center.)

Given a particular size tip (say 13mm), the radius of the tip (nickle to dime) does similar things as the size of the tip. My game calls for something a little more lively than a nickle radius, but if I curve the tip so that it is as fast as a dime, I can't control the cue ball as well as with a slightly longer radius, and I miss shots (via squirt)

[Joeyjay]

MitchAlsup, on Sep 24 2008, 11:22 AM, said:

The size of the tip changes the amount of offset you need to use a particular amount of english, follow, or draw. Consider a really big flat tip--no english, follow or draw can be applied.

A large tip with a nickle radius will take a significant offset to apply english, follow, or draw, while a small tip with a dime radius will not need so much offset for the same amout of effect.

This is an effect you get used to, like you get used to the steering feel in your automobile. Some cars have faster relationship between the amount of steering wheel angle and the radius the car takes in the turn (Corvette), and some have a slower relationship (Mac Truck).

You can have a tip that is so small and so curved that it is hard to control the contact point precisely. Conversely, you can have a big fat flat tip that takes huge amounts of offset to even hit the cue ball off center. The former is good for snooker (played with smaller balls) while the later is great for breaking ('cause you want to hit the cue primarily in the center.)

Given a particular size tip (say 13mm), the radius of the tip (nickle to dime) does similar things as the size of the tip. My game calls for something a little more lively than a nickle radius, but if I curve the tip so that it is as fast as a dime, I can't control the cue ball as well as with a slightly longer radius, and I miss shots (via squirt)

That is an excellent post, when I moved from a nickle to a dime, I got more draw. A lot more.

[lovilla]

a bigger tip gives more surface area to contack and grab the cue ball. playing pool with a snooker tip is like playing tennis with a badminton racket.

[MitchAlsup]

lovilla, on Dec 23 2009, 01:53 PM, said:

a bigger tip gives more surface area to contack and grab the cue ball. playing pool with a snooker tip is like playing tennis with a badminton racket.

A: it is the chalk that grabs the CB, not the leather tip (assuming the tip is properly chalked)
B: a softer tip will have a larger contact surface and a harder tip will have a smaller contact surface
C: you need a certain pressure at the contact surface for the chalk to bite into both the tip and the CB to transmit spins.
D: different chalk requires a different contact presure for optimal results
E: durring the millisecond of contact, the stiffness of the shaft, the hardness of the tip, and the kind of chalk completely determine the energy transfer

So:
F: the reason a snooker cue is disrecommended for pool is the stiffness of the shaft (which by the way is optimal for the lighter smaller balls of snooker) and has almost nothing to do with the size of (or hardness of) the tip!
G: if you hit balls hard (a lot) you need a harder tip and a chalk with more bite (like Master Blue chalk, or even Grey))
H: If you are a delicate player, you an get away with a medium tip (and something like Master Green chalk)
I: If you have a very accurate stroke, you can use a tip with a smaller radius (this will generally be a harder tip, also)
J: these choices are not independent, but experiment to see which work better for your game

[makeuacue]

well this thread has some great opinions and observations . Size of tip , chalk , taper of shaft all have some effect on the outcome of any shot , but not as much as mentioned above . If you lay a cue on the table ,( with whatever size tip , chalk , shaft taper , combination of woods , made by anybody or the lord of heaven and universe ) , it will never miscue , miss a ball , make a ball , jump a ball , masse a ball , UNTIL SOMEONE PICKS IT UP AND SHOOTS WITH IT !!! My point is any cue is only as good as the person shooting with it . How a tip , chalk , or shaft taper performs is determined by the user . Whatever you like and works for you is best ( for you ) I 've been playin longer than most of you been alive and have been makin' cues for a number of years . this is just my opinion and in no way am I disputing any of the above observations . It's a game and you should have fun . There's no magic in any wood , tip , chalk , or shaft taper or construction . The secret is hard work , and a burning desire to compete with no fear of losing ( hating to lose is a good thing !!!) Life is short , PLAY HARD ....