[FASTLARRY]

DRAW. HOW IT WAS DONE IN 1897. HOW AND WHY IT IS TAUGHT WRONG TODAY.

REV……………………….

6-5-05, rev II, 7-30-06, 2 pages, CR, Fast Larry Guninger all rights reserved. Published in DC, bpn, czm, upp, ppt, flp, btt, ip.

Normally I tell my students stroke it, don’t poke it. On the draw I tell them poke it, don’t stroke it. No follow through. In England the draw is called a screw. When you hit a big draw you hear, I say gov-nor, that was a lovely deep screw. I call the draw or the screw, the stab, because that is exactly what I do to the cue ball. My action is just like if I would stab you in the belly with a knife, a violent fast thrust in, then a quick pull back and out. A stab. Jack up and hit down on that cue ball.

The distance you jack up will vary as my cue and stroke is different from yours. Jack up too little and it does not work. Jack up too high and it fails as well because the ball jumps too much. If I am shooting the cue ball out on the table you can place a 2 l/4” ball on the rail and my shaft will rest on it. So I am jacked up around 2” above the rail angling down on the cue ball lying on the table bed.


I have seen writings by Jake Schaefer in the 1880’s and they all fully understood how to draw the ball, Jack up, stab it with a sharp down stroke and follow through 3” only with the tip impacting the cloth. That was what Jake taught. No low and level, jacked up, no long follow through, almost no follow through. The exact opposite of what is being taught today by a bunch of bozos who can not run 3 fookin balls and do not have a clue. Remember Jake was using a ball larger than a cue ball of today, a large billiard ball, and it was ivory so it even weighed more than the phenolic 3-c balls used today. His ball was as hard to draw as a bar box cue ball today is. So if you play on a bar box, listen up, this is your lucky day dude.

John Roberts Jr, and Sr, said the same thing in their classic books between 1900 and 1911. The draw was so important they put in an entire chapter and listed 17 different ways to stab the ball which was what they called it. It is like a Karate punch or a jab in boxing, fast in, pull back fast right after impact, same thing if you stabbed someone. These players were using a very small ball, 2 l/16” smaller and lighter than the pool ball which means the method works on all sizes or weights of balls, 3-c billiards, pool or snooker.

In 1985, Byrne writes one paragraph which was all he knew about the subject and says to draw; shoot low and level with a long follow through. All of that were totally wrong and doomed millions to never be able to have a decent draw. Byrne has a stiff wrist, did not play pool, played at a low amateur level in 3-c and had no draw, so what did you expect from the guy, he was a billiard player and all they do is follow and rarely draw the ball. 3-c billiard players only follow the ball and may play for hours and never draw a ball and when they do it usually fails.

In the book: Foster's Encyclopedia of Games" - Foster, 1897, 8th edition here is what they said about the draw shot.
"The Draw Shot. This is exactly the reverse of the follow shot, the ball being struck below centre, and the cue passing at least three inches beyond where the ball stood, as shown in the diagram. This gives the cue ball a retrograde motion, similar to that imparted to a child's hoop by spinning it backward while throwing it forward, so as to make it return. If the object ball is reached before this retrograde motion is exhausted, the effect will be to stop the forward motion of the cue ball, and to give what is left of the retrograde motion full play, making the cue ball return.

This is exactly correct and why I now teach the exact opposite of what the BCA instructors do.
Follow, then teach hit the cue ball and let the tip decay into the cloth impacting it, which puts drag or backspin on the cue ball where it delays, then follows. I teach a pure ball roll, like golf teaches you to putt, the tip and shaft stays level to the table bed at impact and a foot past the impact of the shot and for advanced players actually rises up some. Now the cue ball rolls faster and longer with no side spin which tails off at the end.

BCA instructors teach you on the draw to be low and level with a long follow through with the tip never touching the cloth. I teach the exact opposite of this, jack up, hit down impacting the cloth with the tip.

So I am right, or they are wrong, that is the question at hand. If you think I am wrong, do not argue with me; go argue with the greatest players of all time, Hoppe, Greenleaf, Mosconi. I teach what these greats did, how they did it.

Back to the book where it continues to say: “The two great mistakes made by beginners in playing draw shots are that they pull the cue back, instead of driving it clear through the ball aimed at, and they strike it so hard that the forward motion of the cue ball is too strong for the retrograde motion to overcome it, or the object ball to stop it. It is never necessary to strike harder than sufficient to reach the object ball and get back to the carom ball unless one is playing for position."

This is again correct. I show students where they are hitting the draw 3 or 4 times harder than I am failing to draw or getting little and I softly lightly peck the cue ball and it explodes up table. Power has nothing to do with this; it is all knowledge and technique. Once this kicks in and you hit your first one, there is a little delay, then the cue ball burns rubber and screams up table so fast it almost runs up your bridge hand the hairs stand up on the back of your neck and yo pecker gets hard. You say, yo baby, FL, yo da man, that is exactly what I wanted. It is one of the greatest moments of your life, right up there with your first kiss.

Too bad, millions of you will never experience this pool ecstasy because you can’t lose or burn your Byrne book and finally admit your draw sucks the big weenie. You have to finally admit it is not you. You thought you did not have talent. Your teachers suck and sold you a flawed method that does not work. So lose these turkeys and now listen to me and I shall lead you out of the darkness they put you into. I will show you the light on the draw. This method works for everyone and has never failed in 3,000 lessons I have given. I can take a total beginner who has never held a cue before and in 10 minutes have he or she drawing table length. Why, their mind has not been corrupted with incorrect methods that I have to erase and eliminate. They listen, they do what I say and they have immediate success. So you can not take a successful lesson from me and try to hang on to half what you think is right and try and cheery pick what you think may work. You have to come into this with a fresh and empty mind with a leap of faith saying I want to advance, so far I have not, so I will follow the teachings and see where they go. That is all I ask of a student.

Info on the book...
Title on binding: "Complete Hoyle" - Foster
Title on cover: "Hoyle an Encyclopedia of Indoor Games"
Inside title: "Foster's Encyclopedia of Games" - Foster, 1897, 8th edition

In the 1925 book, rules governing the royal game of billiards by Brunswick, on page 7 they show diagrams there on how to hit the shots correctly and how not to hit them. On the draw they show wrong is hitting very low on the cue ball level which results in miscues and the ball being jumped off of the table. They show as right, the cue being jacked up coming down on the cue ball at an angle and hitting it l l/2 tips below center, quite high compared to what you have been taught today.

I can show you tapes and still photos of the top 20 hall of famers and the greatest players we have ever had, Hoppe, Jake Schaefer Sr and Jr, Greenleaf, Mosconi, Rudolph, Caras, etc, and all of them were jacked up on their draws. None of them ever used low and level with a long follow through. The proof is there if you wish to confirm this.

When you learn how to do this you will never ever jump another cue ball off of the table again.
I have seen both Nick Varner and Buddy Hall shooting game match ball to win and hit the draw low and level with a long follow through and put the cue ball into the audience to both lose and be eliminated when they could have advanced into the finals. Even great hall of famers like these guys have been seduced into this bad concept. Jumping the cue ball off the table is like a shank in golf. For weeks after that on every draw you are filled with terror.

My mouth does not write a check my body can not cash. I am one of only 3 players in the world who can make the circular draw shot around 3 blocker balls and when I do I tell people to watch, there is no follow through there, none, not even an inch. Try and make that shot for a thousand years using low and level with a long follow and it will never go ever even around any blocker balls.
I show my students that I can place an object ball in front of a pocket, chalk up heavy so I put a chalk mark on the cue ball, and hit the center of the CB, and draw table length. That right there destroys the myth of low and level. It works because I am jacked and then dip down into the ball at impact which imparts more back spin than a low and level shot. I then show them the cue ball and the impact chalk mark is on the dot which was at the equator of the ball proving I hit the center.

My record on this shot not hitting any side long rails is 2 l/2 table lengths, 23’. Mike Massey’s record is 2 l/4 tables. In my show I put an OB as a duck in a corner pocket, the go up table 8’ away, shoot table length, pot, draw back up table with out hitting any points or long side rails to pot another ball in the far corner 9’ away. Some times I miss and run back down table to the sides, that is how much power I can generate. The higher jack up puts on more backspin which stays on longer than a level stroke. That is a fact and this shot proves it.

I then put a ball as a duck in the corner, almost freeze the cue ball to an object ball and hit a pique jacked up draw, by hitting the cue ball at the North Pole, on top of it, pot and draw down the long rail to pot another ball 9’ in the opposite corner. Some times I go down and back up to pot in the opposite corner, two table lengths. I have drawn 4 table lengths using this method, which again proves, the higher you jack up, the deeper the angle in, the more draw you get and that is a fact of physics. This is all no brag, just fact and I demo these shots in my clinics and shows. I teach, I can make what I teach. What I teach, works. Bob Byrne taught you a flawed method, he can’t play and his method has doomed millions to never have a decent draw and not ever know why.
Why, that dog does not hunt, that is why.

Bryne and the BCA instructors have ran me down for years because I dared to tell them they were wrong. I graduated from the BCA teacher’s school and resigned from it over this issue; I refused to teach a method I know is wrong. In late 2005 on the chat board CCB a debate came up on my method and of course Scott Lee and Randy are beating me up as usual and all the better players led by spider man came on to finally say, I am right and this method works the best and I was vindicated on that board. A prophet is never listened to or believed in his own country.

When you master the stab, you become amazed at how light you can hit the cue ball and have it explode up table. It’s the sharp stab nip you put on the ball is the key. Flick the wrist into the shot is another major component. Jack up, stab the ball higher up than you use to and whip the wrist into the shot and watch the cue ball burn rubber backing up. When players learn this new method they double the distance they are drawing with half the effort and force they were using.

So the teaching of a long follow on the draw is dead wrong, it kills the shot. My follow through are an inch to never more than 3”. It is a very short violent stab in, pull back fast. There is no stroke or follow through here; it’s a punch jab like in boxing, or a Karate punch where you just nip the ball. Put a spit mark on the cloth 3” past the back pane of the cue ball. You think, fast in, fast out. My tips dips down going through the cue ball and impacts into the cloth immediately and then slides forward an inch or two to stop at the spit mark. No, I have never torn a cloth doing this. Once a tip did come off at impact and the bare edge of the ferrule did make a little dig which was repairable but that has happened to me once in the last 20 years.

Note Byrne and the BCA flawed instruction tells you to hit low and level and the tip never hits the cloth which works but jumps balls off the table and my method never does. I use low and level if I have to really stretch out with an open hand bridge and make a draw back. It works fine, but it is a dangerous shot just waiting to bite you.

A lot of Snooker players have also been seduced into this low and level crap. Remember the English ball is 2 l/6”, smaller and lighter than the American pool ball which is 2 l/4” and much heavier. The lighter the ball, the easier it draws. Most of their game is played down table, pot red, and pot black. Their game is played like 14.1, short shots, short draws so they get by with low and level. Move to our bigger ball and long draws or force draws in 9 ball and my method works better. This is why the red circle draws better than the blue circle. It is a smaller lighter ball and not the same size as the OB’s. When you move up to the 2 ¾” billiard ball it really becomes hard to draw because of its weight. Some bar box cue balls are this ball in fact. The bigger the ball, the slower the cloth, the more my method helps you.

The distance you jack up will vary as my cue and stroke is different from yours. Jack up too little and it does not work. Jack up too high and it fails as well because the ball jumps too much. If I am shooting the cue ball out on the table you can place a 2 l/4” ball on the rail and my shaft will rest on it. So I am jacked up around 2” above the rail angling down on the cue ball lying on the table bed.


You can add great power using a couple of tips. For some it works to grab the cue at impact holding it very light right up to that point of release into the ball. For all the big secret is bend the wrist back into a deep cock position and then flick it fully into the ball to give the stab power and speed. My concept is the cue ball is a thin egg shell and it offers no resistance. I want to have my cue tip bust the front pane and barely bust the back pane of the ball, then bring the tip back out fast with no follow through. Reality is the tip goes a couple of inches past the back pane but mentally you are reducing that length with that image.

They will tell you jacking up reduces accuracy. Rubbish, the shot stays the say, on the cloth, or in the air, it does not vary.

They will say jacking up jumps the cue ball. Yes it does, but that is not a problem as the cue ball settles back down on the cloth at impact. I teach the students not to use this method, or reduce the jack up any time the OB or CB, is 1 to l l/2’ from each other or the pocket, then there are no problems.

I do not want to war with these other teachers. I just want you guys to all experience the joy of a fine draw and I pray those teaching the flawed method will one day wake up to this and cease sending their students down the paths to failure.

Come chat with me live at www.poolchat.net which used to be called www.billiards-pool.net THE POWER SOURCE POOL SCHOOL “Fast Larry” Guninger offers clinics and video taped lessons. Web site www.fastlarrypool.com POOL LESSONS FROM A GRAND MASTER LEVEL INSTRUCTOR, BILLIARDS EXPERT AND FORMER ARTISTIC WORLD CHAMPION. 770-381-6609. Larry plays on the pro 9 ball tours and has tour cards on the UPA, the men’s main tour; the Florida 9 ball tour, SE pro 9 ball tour and the Senior Tour.
Fax 770-381-1916 POOL QUESTIONS ANSWERED AND FREE INSTRUCTION IS ON www.poolchat.net In the ask the pros forum.“Fast Larry” Guninger and Wonder Dog, trick shot shows and entertainment.
Email fastlarry@bellsouth.net fast larry at bell south dot net.
DVD’s.http://www.fastlarrypool.com/dvdseries_trickshots1_trailer.htm
May God bless and peace be with you. May there now be peace between us. If you are a real pool player, then fast truly loves you. May the wind be always on your back and all 9 balls fall.
VENI VIDI VICI, OMNIA VINCIT AMOR. “ Latin for “I came, I saw, I conquered, love conquerors all. Yes I really did do it all and you can believe it, or not. If you don’t believe it, C’est La Vie. " Shoot straight, innovate, never give up, just run out on the other guy then there is no way for you to lose.
Either lead me, follow me or get the hell out of my way. Do one of the three please. Come celebrate the wonder of this beautiful game with me and become a student of it.
Be my friend, walk my way, flow with what I teach you and you will soar like the Eagle into levels of excellence you never dreamed possible.
"Winners make things happen. Losers let things happen." In the words of Vince Lombardi, "When it comes to the future, there are three kinds of people: those who let it happen, those who make it happen, and those who wonder what happened."
Rack em sausage, Go play fast and loose. Ride em hard, put em up wet, leave the ladies smiling. Live free, die well with your boots on owing no man nothing. May you be in heaven an hour before the devil knows you’re dead. In time, it’s all dust in the wind anyway. Don’t take your self, or anything too serious, just be happy and healthy. Laughter good whiskey and song is the best medicine. Be sure to take the time, to smell the flowers along the way. Aristole said “ Happiness is the meaning and the purpose of life, the whole aim and end of human existence.” Die happy and you lived a good life

[FASTLARRY]

' date='Aug 22 2006, 01:38 PM said:

DRAW. HOW IT WAS DONE IN 1897. HOW AND WHY IT IS TAUGHT WRONG TODAY.

REV……………………….

6-5-05, rev II, 7-30-06, 2 pages, CR, Fast Larry Guninger all rights reserved. Published in DC, bpn, czm, upp, ppt, flp, btt, ip.

Normally I tell my students stroke it, don’t poke it. On the draw I tell them poke it, don’t stroke it. No follow through. In England the draw is called a screw. When you hit a big draw you hear, I say gov-nor, that was a lovely deep screw. I call the draw or the screw, the stab, because that is exactly what I do to the cue ball. My action is just like if I would stab you in the belly with a knife, a violent fast thrust in, then a quick pull back and out. A stab. Jack up and hit down on that cue ball.

The distance you jack up will vary as my cue and stroke is different from yours. Jack up too little and it does not work. Jack up too high and it fails as well because the ball jumps too much. If I am shooting the cue ball out on the table you can place a 2 l/4” ball on the rail and my shaft will rest on it. So I am jacked up around 2” above the rail angling down on the cue ball lying on the table bed.


I have seen writings by Jake Schaefer in the 1880’s and they all fully understood how to draw the ball, Jack up, stab it with a sharp down stroke and follow through 3” only with the tip impacting the cloth. That was what Jake taught. No low and level, jacked up, no long follow through, almost no follow through. The exact opposite of what is being taught today by a bunch of bozos who can not run 3 fookin balls and do not have a clue. Remember Jake was using a ball larger than a cue ball of today, a large billiard ball, and it was ivory so it even weighed more than the phenolic 3-c balls used today. His ball was as hard to draw as a bar box cue ball today is. So if you play on a bar box, listen up, this is your lucky day dude.

John Roberts Jr, and Sr, said the same thing in their classic books between 1900 and 1911. The draw was so important they put in an entire chapter and listed 17 different ways to stab the ball which was what they called it. It is like a Karate punch or a jab in boxing, fast in, pull back fast right after impact, same thing if you stabbed someone. These players were using a very small ball, 2 l/16” smaller and lighter than the pool ball which means the method works on all sizes or weights of balls, 3-c billiards, pool or snooker.

In 1985, Byrne writes one paragraph which was all he knew about the subject and says to draw; shoot low and level with a long follow through. All of that were totally wrong and doomed millions to never be able to have a decent draw. Byrne has a stiff wrist, did not play pool, played at a low amateur level in 3-c and had no draw, so what did you expect from the guy, he was a billiard player and all they do is follow and rarely draw the ball. 3-c billiard players only follow the ball and may play for hours and never draw a ball and when they do it usually fails.

In the book: Foster's Encyclopedia of Games" - Foster, 1897, 8th edition here is what they said about the draw shot.
"The Draw Shot. This is exactly the reverse of the follow shot, the ball being struck below centre, and the cue passing at least three inches beyond where the ball stood, as shown in the diagram. This gives the cue ball a retrograde motion, similar to that imparted to a child's hoop by spinning it backward while throwing it forward, so as to make it return. If the object ball is reached before this retrograde motion is exhausted, the effect will be to stop the forward motion of the cue ball, and to give what is left of the retrograde motion full play, making the cue ball return.

This is exactly correct and why I now teach the exact opposite of what the BCA instructors do.
Follow, then teach hit the cue ball and let the tip decay into the cloth impacting it, which puts drag or backspin on the cue ball where it delays, then follows. I teach a pure ball roll, like golf teaches you to putt, the tip and shaft stays level to the table bed at impact and a foot past the impact of the shot and for advanced players actually rises up some. Now the cue ball rolls faster and longer with no side spin which tails off at the end.

BCA instructors teach you on the draw to be low and level with a long follow through with the tip never touching the cloth. I teach the exact opposite of this, jack up, hit down impacting the cloth with the tip.

So I am right, or they are wrong, that is the question at hand. If you think I am wrong, do not argue with me; go argue with the greatest players of all time, Hoppe, Greenleaf, Mosconi. I teach what these greats did, how they did it.

Back to the book where it continues to say: “The two great mistakes made by beginners in playing draw shots are that they pull the cue back, instead of driving it clear through the ball aimed at, and they strike it so hard that the forward motion of the cue ball is too strong for the retrograde motion to overcome it, or the object ball to stop it. It is never necessary to strike harder than sufficient to reach the object ball and get back to the carom ball unless one is playing for position."

This is again correct. I show students where they are hitting the draw 3 or 4 times harder than I am failing to draw or getting little and I softly lightly peck the cue ball and it explodes up table. Power has nothing to do with this; it is all knowledge and technique. Once this kicks in and you hit your first one, there is a little delay, then the cue ball burns rubber and screams up table so fast it almost runs up your bridge hand the hairs stand up on the back of your neck and yo pecker gets hard. You say, yo baby, FL, yo da man, that is exactly what I wanted. It is one of the greatest moments of your life, right up there with your first kiss.

Too bad, millions of you will never experience this pool ecstasy because you can’t lose or burn your Byrne book and finally admit your draw sucks the big weenie. You have to finally admit it is not you. You thought you did not have talent. Your teachers suck and sold you a flawed method that does not work. So lose these turkeys and now listen to me and I shall lead you out of the darkness they put you into. I will show you the light on the draw. This method works for everyone and has never failed in 3,000 lessons I have given. I can take a total beginner who has never held a cue before and in 10 minutes have he or she drawing table length. Why, their mind has not been corrupted with incorrect methods that I have to erase and eliminate. They listen, they do what I say and they have immediate success. So you can not take a successful lesson from me and try to hang on to half what you think is right and try and cheery pick what you think may work. You have to come into this with a fresh and empty mind with a leap of faith saying I want to advance, so far I have not, so I will follow the teachings and see where they go. That is all I ask of a student.

Info on the book...
Title on binding: "Complete Hoyle" - Foster
Title on cover: "Hoyle an Encyclopedia of Indoor Games"
Inside title: "Foster's Encyclopedia of Games" - Foster, 1897, 8th edition

In the 1925 book, rules governing the royal game of billiards by Brunswick, on page 7 they show diagrams there on how to hit the shots correctly and how not to hit them. On the draw they show wrong is hitting very low on the cue ball level which results in miscues and the ball being jumped off of the table. They show as right, the cue being jacked up coming down on the cue ball at an angle and hitting it l l/2 tips below center, quite high compared to what you have been taught today.

I can show you tapes and still photos of the top 20 hall of famers and the greatest players we have ever had, Hoppe, Jake Schaefer Sr and Jr, Greenleaf, Mosconi, Rudolph, Caras, etc, and all of them were jacked up on their draws. None of them ever used low and level with a long follow through. The proof is there if you wish to confirm this.

When you learn how to do this you will never ever jump another cue ball off of the table again.
I have seen both Nick Varner and Buddy Hall shooting game match ball to win and hit the draw low and level with a long follow through and put the cue ball into the audience to both lose and be eliminated when they could have advanced into the finals. Even great hall of famers like these guys have been seduced into this bad concept. Jumping the cue ball off the table is like a shank in golf. For weeks after that on every draw you are filled with terror.

My mouth does not write a check my body can not cash. I am one of only 3 players in the world who can make the circular draw shot around 3 blocker balls and when I do I tell people to watch, there is no follow through there, none, not even an inch. Try and make that shot for a thousand years using low and level with a long follow and it will never go ever even around any blocker balls.
I show my students that I can place an object ball in front of a pocket, chalk up heavy so I put a chalk mark on the cue ball, and hit the center of the CB, and draw table length. That right there destroys the myth of low and level. It works because I am jacked and then dip down into the ball at impact which imparts more back spin than a low and level shot. I then show them the cue ball and the impact chalk mark is on the dot which was at the equator of the ball proving I hit the center.

My record on this shot not hitting any side long rails is 2 l/2 table lengths, 23’. Mike Massey’s record is 2 l/4 tables. In my show I put an OB as a duck in a corner pocket, the go up table 8’ away, shoot table length, pot, draw back up table with out hitting any points or long side rails to pot another ball in the far corner 9’ away. Some times I miss and run back down table to the sides, that is how much power I can generate. The higher jack up puts on more backspin which stays on longer than a level stroke. That is a fact and this shot proves it.

I then put a ball as a duck in the corner, almost freeze the cue ball to an object ball and hit a pique jacked up draw, by hitting the cue ball at the North Pole, on top of it, pot and draw down the long rail to pot another ball 9’ in the opposite corner. Some times I go down and back up to pot in the opposite corner, two table lengths. I have drawn 4 table lengths using this method, which again proves, the higher you jack up, the deeper the angle in, the more draw you get and that is a fact of physics. This is all no brag, just fact and I demo these shots in my clinics and shows. I teach, I can make what I teach. What I teach, works. Bob Byrne taught you a flawed method, he can’t play and his method has doomed millions to never have a decent draw and not ever know why.
Why, that dog does not hunt, that is why.

Bryne and the BCA instructors have ran me down for years because I dared to tell them they were wrong. I graduated from the BCA teacher’s school and resigned from it over this issue; I refused to teach a method I know is wrong. In late 2005 on the chat board CCB a debate came up on my method and of course Scott Lee and Randy are beating me up as usual and all the better players led by spider man came on to finally say, I am right and this method works the best and I was vindicated on that board. A prophet is never listened to or believed in his own country.

When you master the stab, you become amazed at how light you can hit the cue ball and have it explode up table. It’s the sharp stab nip you put on the ball is the key. Flick the wrist into the shot is another major component. Jack up, stab the ball higher up than you use to and whip the wrist into the shot and watch the cue ball burn rubber backing up. When players learn this new method they double the distance they are drawing with half the effort and force they were using.

So the teaching of a long follow on the draw is dead wrong, it kills the shot. My follow through are an inch to never more than 3”. It is a very short violent stab in, pull back fast. There is no stroke or follow through here; it’s a punch jab like in boxing, or a Karate punch where you just nip the ball. Put a spit mark on the cloth 3” past the back pane of the cue ball. You think, fast in, fast out. My tips dips down going through the cue ball and impacts into the cloth immediately and then slides forward an inch or two to stop at the spit mark. No, I have never torn a cloth doing this. Once a tip did come off at impact and the bare edge of the ferrule did make a little dig which was repairable but that has happened to me once in the last 20 years.

Note Byrne and the BCA flawed instruction tells you to hit low and level and the tip never hits the cloth which works but jumps balls off the table and my method never does. I use low and level if I have to really stretch out with an open hand bridge and make a draw back. It works fine, but it is a dangerous shot just waiting to bite you.

A lot of Snooker players have also been seduced into this low and level crap. Remember the English ball is 2 l/6”, smaller and lighter than the American pool ball which is 2 l/4” and much heavier. The lighter the ball, the easier it draws. Most of their game is played down table, pot red, and pot black. Their game is played like 14.1, short shots, short draws so they get by with low and level. Move to our bigger ball and long draws or force draws in 9 ball and my method works better. This is why the red circle draws better than the blue circle. It is a smaller lighter ball and not the same size as the OB’s. When you move up to the 2 ¾” billiard ball it really becomes hard to draw because of its weight. Some bar box cue balls are this ball in fact. The bigger the ball, the slower the cloth, the more my method helps you.

The distance you jack up will vary as my cue and stroke is different from yours. Jack up too little and it does not work. Jack up too high and it fails as well because the ball jumps too much. If I am shooting the cue ball out on the table you can place a 2 l/4” ball on the rail and my shaft will rest on it. So I am jacked up around 2” above the rail angling down on the cue ball lying on the table bed.


You can add great power using a couple of tips. For some it works to grab the cue at impact holding it very light right up to that point of release into the ball. For all the big secret is bend the wrist back into a deep cock position and then flick it fully into the ball to give the stab power and speed. My concept is the cue ball is a thin egg shell and it offers no resistance. I want to have my cue tip bust the front pane and barely bust the back pane of the ball, then bring the tip back out fast with no follow through. Reality is the tip goes a couple of inches past the back pane but mentally you are reducing that length with that image.

They will tell you jacking up reduces accuracy. Rubbish, the shot stays the say, on the cloth, or in the air, it does not vary.

They will say jacking up jumps the cue ball. Yes it does, but that is not a problem as the cue ball settles back down on the cloth at impact. I teach the students not to use this method, or reduce the jack up any time the OB or CB, is 1 to l l/2’ from each other or the pocket, then there are no problems.

I do not want to war with these other teachers. I just want you guys to all experience the joy of a fine draw and I pray those teaching the flawed method will one day wake up to this and cease sending their students down the paths to failure.

Come chat with me live at www.poolchat.net which used to be called www.billiards-pool.net THE POWER SOURCE POOL SCHOOL “Fast Larry” Guninger offers clinics and video taped lessons. Web site www.fastlarrypool.com POOL LESSONS FROM A GRAND MASTER LEVEL INSTRUCTOR, BILLIARDS EXPERT AND FORMER ARTISTIC WORLD CHAMPION. 770-381-6609. Larry plays on the pro 9 ball tours and has tour cards on the UPA, the men’s main tour; the Florida 9 ball tour, SE pro 9 ball tour and the Senior Tour.
Fax 770-381-1916 POOL QUESTIONS ANSWERED AND FREE INSTRUCTION IS ON www.poolchat.net In the ask the pros forum.“Fast Larry” Guninger and Wonder Dog, trick shot shows and entertainment.
Email fastlarry@bellsouth.net fast larry at bell south dot net.
DVD’s.http://www.fastlarrypool.com/dvdseries_trickshots1_trailer.htm
May God bless and peace be with you. May there now be peace between us. If you are a real pool player, then fast truly loves you. May the wind be always on your back and all 9 balls fall.
VENI VIDI VICI, OMNIA VINCIT AMOR. “ Latin for “I came, I saw, I conquered, love conquerors all. Yes I really did do it all and you can believe it, or not. If you don’t believe it, C’est La Vie. " Shoot straight, innovate, never give up, just run out on the other guy then there is no way for you to lose.
Either lead me, follow me or get the hell out of my way. Do one of the three please. Come celebrate the wonder of this beautiful game with me and become a student of it.
Be my friend, walk my way, flow with what I teach you and you will soar like the Eagle into levels of excellence you never dreamed possible.
"Winners make things happen. Losers let things happen." In the words of Vince Lombardi, "When it comes to the future, there are three kinds of people: those who let it happen, those who make it happen, and those who wonder what happened."
Rack em sausage, Go play fast and loose. Ride em hard, put em up wet, leave the ladies smiling. Live free, die well with your boots on owing no man nothing. May you be in heaven an hour before the devil knows you’re dead. In time, it’s all dust in the wind anyway. Don’t take your self, or anything too serious, just be happy and healthy. Laughter good whiskey and song is the best medicine. Be sure to take the time, to smell the flowers along the way. Aristole said “ Happiness is the meaning and the purpose of life, the whole aim and end of human existence.” Die happy and you lived a good life

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