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#1 User is offline   Eagle1 

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Posted 06 August 2006 - 07:59 PM

What is the prefered cue of the professional majority?? :-? oh come on! there has 2 b a most popular Q??!!

[ Edited by Eagle1 on 2006/8/16 14:34 ]
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#2 User is offline   codycox 

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Posted 18 September 2006 - 07:42 PM

well if ther profesonal they most likly play with either predator or viking but the cues they play with r very expensive! like 1500$! :-o
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#3 User is offline   Eagle1 

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Posted 27 September 2006 - 09:50 PM

Thanks again! Why is it that most pros dont use screw on tips? Is there a problem with them!??
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#4 User is offline   coolcuedude 

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Posted 30 September 2006 - 07:13 PM

There is a major problem with them. They loosen up and are considered the worst thing you can use or do. A pro only uses Morri hard tips and has them installed at tourneyts by top installers using lathes. They pay $40 to have a tip done right.
Cool Cue Dude
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#5 User is offline   Eagle1 

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Posted 01 October 2006 - 08:34 PM

Thanks again, Cool Cue! Iwas not aware of that. Your a wealth of information. :-)

[ Edited by Eagle1 on 2006/10/1 21:35 ]
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#6 User is offline   9BallroadPro 

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 08:21 AM

Yeah, you mostly see screw on tips in bars where the owner does not really give a hoot about your playing conditions. The bar box to him is just an income thing and the coin op guy loans it to him to take half the quarters as income. He is supposed to maintain in but rarely does so he puts in the cheapest chinese house cues he can buy at $3 a piece so when they lose a tip its cheaper for him to just replace the cue than repair it or retip it. Because this costs him money he does not replace cues very often and suddenly the bar can find itself in a place where all the cues have no tips and no quarters are going in the box. Walla, the owner goes out and gets some screw on tips he can replace, or sometimes the cues come that way for him so he can replace the tips and not bother the coin op guy.

Any way you slice it, its pool in its worst form.
9 Ball Road Pro
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#7 User is offline   Eagle1 

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 12:05 PM

Thanks, 9BallPro, I hear alot about changing tips.CoolCue mentioned that most pro use morri tips and that their tips are machined. What id like to know is WHAT IS THE PROCEDURE/PROCESS TO CHANGE YOUR OWN TIP! THANKS :-?
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#8 User is offline   9BallroadPro 

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 12:23 PM

Go to a mechanic and say, change my tip. For a triangle or lepro you may pay 10 to 20, for a Morri they now run about $40.
9 Ball Road Pro
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#9 User is offline   TryingHard 

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Posted 02 October 2006 - 01:02 PM

Seybert's has a nice set of videos available on line. I used to change my own tips using the equpment on this page, but after damaging a ferrule, I pay to have mine done. And forget the Tweetens for the tip glue - Super Glue works much better.

http://www.seyberts.com/cue_accessories/ki...ages/deluxe.htm
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#10 User is offline   Eagle1 

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 11:53 AM

LMAO!! ok, so theres no getting around it. your saying let the pros do it. (change my tip) funny! THANKS
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#11 User is offline   Eagle1 

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 11:59 AM

Point taken, u saved myself and probably lots of others from a miserable moment! Im sure if i ruined a cue changing a tip my blood pressure would surely rise dangerously high! LOL THANKS :-o
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#12 User is offline   Eagle1 

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 12:17 PM

That was really good video! And what it told me was DONT EVEN THINK ABOUT CHANGING MY OWN TIP! :-o THANKS
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#13 User is offline   seymore15074 

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Posted 15 November 2006 - 05:13 PM

I've always changed my own tips. It's not hard at all--as long as you have the right tools. Just take your time. I first learned doing house cues down the hall...

A 13mm tip fits on a 13mm ferrule just fine, in my opinion. If you are too off centered you can always cut it off and try again.

The only risky part is trimming the tip. Turn your cutter nice and easy, and watch the filings that are comming out...if you start to see the glue getting cut off, you are right at the ferrule. Try to get it smooth without seeing any white filings! (White filings would be your ferrule!) Also, the glue I use is clear, but it looks almost white, so it's hard to tell the difference...take your time, and this will be no problem.

The videos on that link are great, that is exactly it. The only thing I would recommend is that if you are cleanning a dirty dirty ferrule, clean it before you put the tip on.

Also, I absolutely love the shapping-tool that they use there. Do not use a tapper or some scuffer or some other spin-the-shaft-like-you're-trying-to-start-a-fire device. Get used to that hand shapper and it'll be faster and better. Just remember when shapping your tip that you do not want to round off the sides, you want a nice even edge.

Btw, people/places make a killing off of putting on tips. Tips are generally very cheap, and it only takes about 20 minutes MAX! I have my own box (50) of Triangles that I picked up for around $35 (that's 50 cents a piece).

[ Edited by seymore15074 on 2006/11/15 17:16 ]
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#14 User is offline   imax 

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 01:10 PM

Re: Talisman instructions submitted to their website

Cue tip installation suggestions, submitted by one of our regular cue makers customers. Please print this out and show it to your repair guy.

I found that the best way to install a layered tip is this:

1) sand the bottom of the tip as usual.

2) Put superglue gel on both the ferrule and tip, smear together, pull apart, wait a few seconds, put tip on ferrule and hold in place with a steady pressure of some kind, wait ten minutes.

3) Trim down the side of the tip to finish size, sand lightly, burnish (sometimes I leave a 1 degree angle on the side of the tip to allow for mushrooming, not a problem with Talisman tips).

4) At this point the tip is much too long and unshaped, so I use a single cutting bit in the lathe to remove .015 from the side of the tip to the point where such a cut would intersect the eventual desired dome shape. Talisman suggests that the height of the side wall on a finished tip be less than 1/3 of the shaft diameter. So on a 12mm shaft the sidewall should be less than 4mm.

5) Then I remove another .015 from the side of the tip until it intersects just further out on the dome.

6) Keep removing .015 and stopping just short of the prior cut ... this will eventually approximate the dome shape and the advantage is that this procedure is less stressful on the tip and doesn't delaminate it (which can be a problem).

7) Now the tip is roughly dome shaped but very rough and needs to be shaped with a mill file and sandpaper ... use gentle pressure with the mill file to avoid delaminating the tip.
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