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best cue joint ,stainless or plastic


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#1 Guest_mrcrawdad_*

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 10:59 AM

Seeing that the joint of the cue changes the feel of the hit the question is which do you prefer,?......stainless,plastic,or ivory...........
Some of the best cue makers thru the years went to micarta and it seems it has taken some away from the others? Your choice?
Crawdad

#2 Demondrew

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 11:27 AM

Seeing that the joint of the cue changes the feel of the hit the question is which do you prefer,?......stainless,plastic,or ivory...........
Some of the best cue makers thru the years went to micarta and it seems it has taken some away from the others? Your choice?
Crawdad


I can't tell the difference in joints, at all. I can tell the difference between tips, shaft sizes, weight forward, butt heavy, ash shaft, maple shaft and even some of the different ferrel materials but not the joint. With maybe the exception of wood threaded into wood on my billiard cue (but I think that has more to do with the shaft than the joint).

So as to my choice? It does not matter as much to me as several other factors.

Andy

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#3 FASTLARRY

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 11:30 AM

I can't tell the difference in joints, at all. I can tell the difference between tips, shaft sizes, weight forward, butt heavy, ash shaft, maple shaft and even some of the different ferrel materials but not the joint. With maybe the exception of wood threaded into wood on my billiard cue (but I think that has more to do with the shaft than the joint).

So as to my choice? It does not matter as much to me as several other factors.

Andy



Ah so Grasshopper, U read fast rarry stuff, raw raw............................

That is what uncle Bob taught me, and it took a while for me to accept it, that the joint only amounts to 4% of the playability of the cue, therefore IMHO< it makes sense to then choose the strongest, which would be stainless steel. But if you want plastic, that is fine as well, I have used both on the tour?

"Fast Larry" Guninger
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#4 MitchAlsup

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 01:33 PM

I can honestly say I don't care for metalic joints (steel brass,...)--but the reason has nothing to do with structure, hit,... it has to do with the weight distribution of the cue as a whole. I find the wood-wood joints do not have the nose heavy feel, and thus balance better in my hands, especially when taken down to the 17.5-18 oz range.

You may find otherwise.

#5 FASTLARRY

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 01:54 PM

I can honestly say I don't care for metalic joints (steel brass,...)--but the reason has nothing to do with structure, hit,... it has to do with the weight distribution of the cue as a whole. I find the wood-wood joints do not have the nose heavy feel, and thus balance better in my hands, especially when taken down to the 17.5-18 oz range.

You may find otherwise.




Plastic is popular with the women pros, and only 3-cushion players, mostly foreign, play with wood to wood, its rare for a pool player to do so.
I have tried wood to wood, many different models, and they all left me cold as a stone.

The thing I like about my bushka, is its forward balanced, so you can't feel the weight. I hand people a 20 and they swear its an 18, too many cues have been badly butt heavy.

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#6 astetsoncowboy

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 04:24 PM

My preference is stainless. It's what I've always had so being stupid on this subject, if plastic or wood were to actually make any type of difference, what would those differences actually be? Flexibility? Just curious here.
Yet, despite the look on my face, you are still talking.

Sarcasm. Just one of my many talents.

#7 FASTLARRY

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 05:09 PM

My preference is stainless. It's what I've always had so being stupid on this subject, if plastic or wood were to actually make any type of difference, what would those differences actually be? Flexibility? Just curious here.



Why did Moooooochies uncle Bob then begin selling plastic, answer, its cheaper than steel? Get it, more money in uncle Bob's pocket. The wood on wood guys, think they get more feel, comes closer to being a one piece cue. Snooker players play with old one piece cues handed down to them from their grandfathers.
Different strokes, fo different folks.

Bottom line on da joint, it don't matta no how.

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#8 huebler

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 06:43 PM

Why did Moooooochies uncle Bob then begin selling plastic, answer, its cheaper than steel? Get it, more money in uncle Bob's pocket. The wood on wood guys, think they get more feel, comes closer to being a one piece cue. Snooker players play with old one piece cues handed down to them from their grandfathers.
Different strokes, fo different folks.

Bottom line on da joint, it don't matta no how.

I prefer plastic for the feel of the hit, and can definitely tell the difference. However, I still love my Balabuska with stainless steel. My very first cue at age 12 was a Schmelke with their classic metal joint with a very wide threaded middle. It feels much harder than the Balabuska stainless joint. My second cue was a Huebler with a plastic joint. I still love the feel and sound this cue makes when it hits, a great tonal thunk. The balance on that cue is still much more to my liking as well. Its the softest of the three and feels the most like a one piece cue. But with 12.75 mm shaft, it is not as lively and low deflection as my Fast Larry juiced Balabushka. So the Balabuska is the middle of the three in terms of balance point and feel of the hit.

All in, my experience lines up the Fast's Uncle Bob comment that the joint is only 4%. I can feel and hear a difference in the Huebler with the wood to wood contact and plastic joint. I do not think it makes the cue better, just different and a matter of what one is used to. The juiced 11.5 mm shaft does make a serious positive affect on the performance and I like the classic look of the Balabuska, so I accept the stainless joint as part of the package and have completely adjusted to the feel of the stainless joint.

#9 FASTLARRY

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Posted 08 February 2010 - 07:04 PM

[quote name='huebler' date='Feb 8 2010, 06:43 PM' post='29983']
I prefer plastic for the feel of the hit, and can definitely tell the difference. However, I still love my Balabuska with stainless steel. My very first cue at age 12 was a Schmelke with their classic metal joint with a very wide threaded middle. It feels much harder than the Balabuska stainless joint. My second cue was a Huebler with a plastic joint. I still love the feel and sound this cue makes when it hits, a great tonal thunk. The balance on that cue is still much more to my liking as well. Its the softest of the three and feels the most like a one piece cue. But with 12.75 mm shaft, it is not as lively and low deflection as my Fast Larry juiced Balabushka. So the Balabuska is the middle of the three in terms of balance point and feel of the hit.

All in, my experience lines up the Fast's Uncle Bob comment that the joint is only 4%. I can feel and hear a difference in the Huebler with the wood to wood contact and plastic joint. I do not think it makes the cue better, just different and a matter of what one is used to. The juiced 11.5 mm shaft does make a serious positive affect on the performance and I like the classic look of the Balabuska, so I accept the stainless joint as part of the package and have completely adjusted to the feel of the stainless joint.


******************************************************************

Outstanding post, spot on me boy, I had played with Uncle Bob's PP-4 on tour for 4 years, with a plastic joint, and when he did a Titanic and I saw the bow dip under the sea, I jumped off with all the other rats and went back to my bushka steel joint and that adjustment took about 10 minutes. I am telling you guys, you gotta back off all this feel stuff. Stop let it lead you around.
Screw feel, all I want to see is the cb dancing around, if the cue feels bad doing that, I can live with it.

Now the more advanced the player, the more feel he has. An apa 7 feels a ton of things, a 3 does not, a 3 or 4, feels nuttin. A pro feels more, and somebody like me, whos been out there, for a half century, trust me, I fell things you are not aware of. You are hearing the difference, more than feeling it, and you realized this.

This has become a very intelligent discussion, I am proud of you guys.

"Fast Larry" Guninger
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#10 FASTLARRY

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Posted 31 May 2015 - 08:33 PM

Since there is no feel, no performance, go with strength, stainless steel. 


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#11 ADAM

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Posted 31 May 2015 - 08:41 PM

Just like a couple Falcons I've seen on here.... <_<


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#12 J0HN0

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Posted 31 May 2015 - 11:17 PM

Try putting some headphones on, the little "mushroom" ones that go inside the ear and cut out external noise.

 

Then go and see how your cue "feels", once you're deprived of the aural part it's surprising how little "feel" there is left.

 

My jointed Schuler pool cue seems to "feel" harder than my 1 piece alloy snooker cue, which kinda pushes me toward supporting "the joint doesn't count for very much" statement....

 

Just MHO

MJ



#13 FASTLARRY

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Posted 01 June 2015 - 10:42 AM

Meucci says the joint only affects playability 4%, so with that, always go for strength, stainless steel, bums like mooooo   oooochie are just fookin you on their cue putting everything in that's cheap to make more money, like plastic joints, using decals, etc............

 

I make a living and carry two cues, the Jap LTD-3 and my signature Schuler, which IMHO, is the best hitting cue here is.

 

I am now playing around, testing a Viking.


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#14 axis

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Posted 02 June 2015 - 02:51 PM

I'm a fan of Stainless, it seems to give a more solid hit and does give a more forward balance. I have a Joss with stainless joint that has a great balance and solid hit. Like FL said, you can't really feel the weight of it when shooting because of the balance. I used to have a McDermott with a plastic / phenolic joint, 3/8-10 pin that had a much softer hit and was more rear balanced. Needless to say I didn't like it as much but it was still a fine playing cue. 



#15 FASTLARRY

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Posted 02 June 2015 - 03:24 PM

And the pin, 14 or 18, I use both, again, it makes no difference.  The wood 3/8x10, that I dont like. 


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#16 ADAM

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Posted 02 June 2015 - 06:58 PM

I like 10 & 14 but out of all pins I like radial the best..
Here's a pic of a 3/8X10 and a radial pin..Inside a shaft.

Attached Files


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#17 FASTLARRY

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Posted 02 June 2015 - 07:07 PM

I stay with 14, because it allows me to use my juice shafts.  Radial, your then locked out. 


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#18 ADAM

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Posted 02 June 2015 - 07:41 PM

Naw.. You can order me that thread..
-💥EVERY CUE HAS "IT", IT'S YOUR JOB TO FIND "IT"💥-

#19 FASTLARRY

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Posted 02 June 2015 - 08:03 PM

sure I can, its a special, $175, instead of $139. 


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#20 ADAM

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Posted 02 June 2015 - 08:13 PM

10-FO

 

 

And its not in stock, and you have to wait 2-3 weeks. 

 

viking tries to do the same thing, with their own unilocks. and I have them make nothing but 5/16-14 for my stuff, and for what I sell.

 

The idea is smart, make a radial, or interlock that is just yours, then I cant sell you a $139 juice shaft, you then have to buy theirs for $179 to $250. 


-💥EVERY CUE HAS "IT", IT'S YOUR JOB TO FIND "IT"💥-




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