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#1 FASTLARRY

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Posted 29 August 2009 - 11:47 AM

CHALK BLUE DIAMOND

We’ve all heard the stories about Blue Diamond Chalk. Some people swear by it, saying it is by far the best pool cue chalk on the market. Other people think it’s just a bunch of marketing hooey and people are paying an insane amount of money for chalk.

Blue master will cost you about 35 cents a cube and they are selling Blue diamond for $4 a cube. So what’s the truth?

The one thing I have learned about pool players is if you are selling something for 25 cents, and you raise the price to 35 cents nobody buys it. But make that same item now $4 and tell everyone it’s much better, and they line up around the block to jump on it.

They tell you that produced with a secret Longoni formula created over 30 years ago and you get it from the Italian Longoni company. The truth is, is comes from Tweeten in Chicago, and it’s sold to Italy from their old American formula created 30 years ago using lead and Mercury.

To uncover some answers, I decided to send an email to the main man over at Tweeten. Considering the fact that Tweeten makes the best chalk in the world, I figured they’d have some insights on the Blue Diamond stuff. Here’s what I asked:

There have been quite a few rumors swirling about Blue Diamond Chalk, including one that has Tweeten as the manufacturer of the chalk. I was wondering if you could dispel some of these rumors:

1. Is Blue Diamond made by Tweeten?
2. If so, does Tweeten use a different chalk blend than what they use in Master Chalk?

I did get some information, but it looks like the mysteries around Blue Diamond will continue. Here’s the response from Skip Nemecek, the President of Tweeten Fibre Co.:
“To answer one of your questions, yes we manufacturer Blue Diamond Chalk for the Norditalia company in Italy. Sorry but I cannot answer the second question.”

This is so typical of them, they keep everything secret, don’t want you to know most of their tips are soft and wear out too fast, and you can never get a straight story out of them. They will even tell you their green and blue formula is the same, which is total BS.

Is it really worth 7 bucks for 2 cubes of chalk? Is it just Master Chalk in a fancy label? Ultimately, I guess it doesn’t matter. People love Blue Diamond chalk, Blue Diamond is made by the best pool cue chalk manufacturer in the world, so it’s no surprise that Blue Diamond is widely considered the best chalk on the market. If you feel like the Blue Diamond chalk makes you a better player, it’s worth spending the dough. Master Chalk I think is better than Silver Cup in my completely worthless opinion. As to what’s in it… your guess is as good as mine. But I think my guess is correct and makes sense.

The rumor I’ve heard about Blue Diamond Chalk is that it’s the old formula for Master Chalk which contained mercury and Lead in it and that the US has laws against manufacturing items that contain mercury and there was concerns about your kids or your dogs and cats eating the chalk that falls on the floor and having brain damage. Italy doesn’t care or isn’t as strict.

I don’t know for sure but it makes sense as Old Master Chalk is better than today’s new Master Chalk. Everyone noticed the difference when Master changed the chalk a few years ago. The new chalk was not as good as the old chalk with the Lead and Mercury. The old chalk adhered and stayed on the tip better. The new chalk Master put out has the American flag on it so you can tell it from the old. Look in Johnny Archer’s bag and he has a dozen old pre flag pieces half worn out he is hanging on to and still using. He will tell you flat out if he finds an old preflag piece in a pool hall he will steal it in a heartbeat.

I am a little more fortunate; I had 3 gross of it when the change took place. I am now down to l l/2 gross so I have a lifetime supply for my personal use. So do I need to pay for Blue Diamond, no, I am using the preflag Master and that apparently is what Blue Diamond is. The old Master chalk formula with lead and mercury. So keep it away from the little kids and pets. Don’t let a piece fall on the floor, because dogs love to chew on chalk.

Why would Tweeten make an entirely new formula and batch just for one small company and production run? They would not. And why sell it only to Italy. Answer, because it’s the old lead mercury formula they can’t directly sell anymore in America? So there is the real truth on this subject that they won’t come clean on?

OK, so you don’t have any of the preflag Masters sitting around anymore.
Then do try out the Blue Diamond Chalk and it does stick better. If it’ll save you from a miscue in a critical match then it’s well worth the $7 IMHO for the 2 pieces. For those kinds of prices, you will learn to not leave the chalk on the table after you shoot and keep it in your pocket. I use the Flag in practice and the preflag in competition and in tourneys or in my shows and exhibitions.

And the preflag I guard with my life. I have my initials on each piece, just in case I do leave a piece on a rail and somebody picks it up. Then they can’t say it’s a house piece.

Check out the green piece from my antique collection, 1930's, it was round, what a cool idea, why did they change, I would guess a block would be cheaper to make? Old pre 50's chalk is very expensive to acquire, a lot of people collect it and what little comes up, too many are after it and they drive the price up. Also at the turn of the 20th century most of the chalk was white, and you can buy white from silver cup today, but I could not imagine where you would use it at?

I show up with my chalk in 3 small bags, each has 4 pieces in it sealed. Bag 1 is my flag chalk I practice with. In competition I use a piece out of bag 2, my 1993 preflag blue, and before they come out of my big box and go into the sealed bag and into my case, I put them on a pie pan and bake them at 400 degrees to insure all the moisture is out of them since they have been sitting around in my pool room for the 16 years. When I have a competitor I take 2 brand new pieces out of bag 3, this is my bait. He sees this brand new chalk and jumps on it and begins using it and ignores his pos piece that is half worn out. These I have soaked with water and soon his draw begins to die and his cue ball control goes to she-yit and he has no idea what happened. Simple, I fooked him. That one simple little trick has taken more out than I can shake a stick at. So control your piece of chalk, I could have just spit in it when you went to the can.

click the pics to enlarge them.


HOW TO BUY TODAYS MASTER CHALK...............................................


MASTER BILLIARD & POOL CHALK

Master chalk 12 pieces $2.69 Best Buy lowest price. Freight s&h is $3.30 total price $5.99. To order, send an email to fastlarrypool@bellsouth.net

Only use the best chalk, Master, and It is only 22 cents apiece. You can choose from blue, light green or darker spruce green, brown/gold, silver/gray, red/burgundy.
If you do not list a color we ship blue which will usually be in a 12 pc box but we reserve the right to ship the 12 pieces loose sealed in a zip lock bag in bubble wrap. This is the best way to ship it and to store it at home, sealed in a zip lock bag, and not in a box.

IMHO, as a pro player, Master is the best chalk and gives you the best coat with less miss cues. You can order several colors from us, but I find blue coats the best. Some pros will say green is best, so that is up for debate. I have had a chemist test them, and my friend runs the 2nd largest chalk company and both agrees with me, green is more difficult to make, and it miss cues more definitely. Some will say all colors are the same play, do not believe it.

So Blue is the best, then brown, green, and red is the worst. Blue is best to carry because it can be used on the two most common clothes you will find in a pool hall, green or blue. Do not use it on Camel or beige as it will show up badly and be hard to remove.

Buy my cloth cleaner from my store to do that with. If you have a camel or light beige cloth, you must use the Brown/gold chalk. If you have a Red cloth, you must use red chalk. Do not use brown chalk on a green or blue cloth as it will show up and trash it as well. Chalk correctly and you do not get chalk on your fingers. You only get it on them, by grinding an old piece in the middle.

Chalk is inexpensive so you need to provide your own and stop thinking others will for you. How many places have you gone in only to find some off brand piece, will a hole to the bottom that did not work worth a flip. It only aggravated you and caused you to play worse via many miss cues and chalk stains all over your hands. Why do you put up with this, when you can buy a piece from me for only 22 cents.

So buy a box or bag of 12 pieces and store them in a room you live in that have stable temperatures and have AC. If we ship to you in a zip lock bag, keep them in that and sealed. Then put 3 pieces in a smaller plastic bag, or sandwich zip lock, and put inside a pack, or tube from a vitamin bottle, they absorb moisture and toss them in your pool case. The bag will keep the chalk dust off of your other things. Keep your chalk sealed and dry. This is really important in the south, areas of high humidity, during the summer, or when it’s raining. That moisture outside, gets inside the house and on your chalk.
Chalk is basically dirt in a wrap with a few things added to it to hold it together. They used to cut chunks of it out of the cliffs of Dover, dry them out in the sun, then cut them into smaller pieces and wrap paper around them to keep it off the fingers. The original pieces were white. Later they colored them to match the clothes as white showed up too much.
It acquires moisture easy and once it does, it does not dry out well. If it rains, your chalk picks it up. In the past, you may have had your draw one day go completely away, and your English begin to fail and not apply well. You had no control over where the cue ball went and you lost badly. It could have been wet chalk. You can’t see it, but it will kill the action on your ball. If you can squeak the chalk applying it, then it’s probably Ok. If it won’t, then give it away, leave it on the rail when you go home. Or, put in on a pie pan; pop it in a hot oven for a few minutes to dry it out. Keeping chalk dry is quite important.
Always use a new piece. When mine begins to get a little crater in the middle, I give that piece away and break out a new one. Why, I only chalk on the 4 corners, never in the middle. I brush down on the tip with light but firm strokes trying to put an even, but very light coat on. You cannot do that grinding in the middle of the hole. You must chalk up before every shot, no matter how easy it may be.

Attached Files


"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.comicon_smile.gificon_biggrin.gificon_surprised.gificon_surprised.gificon_razz.gif


#2 FASTLARRY

FASTLARRY

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Posted 29 August 2009 - 12:04 PM

CHALK: All you need to know. 3 Proposition shots. WEI

13 pages,11-29-06 1-5-07, 8-13-08, 10-24-04, 9-2-08, CR, Fast Larry Guninger all rights reserved. Bpn, czm, upp and on numerous other internet sites.

What are the rules about putting it on the rail?
I know, you know all about chalk, you wonít waste your time reading this. Big mistake. 13 pages to know how to chalk. Yes, and more.

There is no rule book as there are 9 different books and you must look up the rule under the book you are now playing under.

What is chalk? Think of it as dirt in a wrap. Itís actually a little more complicated than this and I have been through the silver cup chalk factory and seen how it is made first hand. During the 1800ís up to the 1920ís in England they just went down to the white cliffs of Dover and dug out a big hunk with a shovel. They brought it home and let it dry in the sun. Then they cut out little chunks to use which were white of course. That chalked tips for a century until lower cost means allowed chalk to be in neat cubes with paper around it to keep the dust off the fingers.

Most people just assume there is nothing to know about chalk. You rub it on the tip and thatís that. Wrong, in the last couple of years Iíve gone into Artistic play which is a form of trick shots but much more advanced. Itís mostly monster force follows, force draws and killer masses. Youíre hitting the outside edges of the cue ball. I make some shots 3 tips out and my Big Kahuna masse is 4 tips out. It is so easy to miss cue when you get any more than 2 tips outside of center. You want to play pool using no English if possible hitting all shots center ball and playing angle to angle. But you will be left shots that will require a lot of English to get to the next shot so English is like women, you canít live with them, and you canít live without them.

Artistic pool made me realize the vital importance of proper chalking of a tip. Every time I used to miss cue in the past I would grab the file and rough up the tip. I was going through a lot of tips because I was filing them off for nothing. I moved away from softer tips into Triangles or Talisman H. You can buy these tips now on: www.billiards-superstore.com They hold up better, do not mushroom and last longer. They also put more power and English on the ball but the harder the tip the harder it is to get an even coat of chalk on it. You have to take your time and watch it going on evenly. Chalking an Elk Master is simple. Chalking a Talisman H is difficult.

I shape my tips with a 100 grit sandpaper file and shape them to a dime. I will use the williards metal disc just too rough the top up some when it gets packed down. No more than a turn or two. I have a burnisher which is a long hollow plastic tube that compresses the outside edges of the tip. I use a leather strip for this also and spit on the edge of the tip to harden it as well to help prevent spreading.

I only use a new piece of chalk. Once it gets a hole in the middle I give it away by leaving it on the table when I quit. I use only blue chalk and there is a difference in how they go on and perform between the colors. Silver cup agrees with me on this and told me it took them years to learn how to make green chalk which is a problem color and it does miss cue more than blue. Red is bad, Beige is great.

I like Master the best because it puts on a thicker cover. Silver cup is fine chalk but it puts on a thin coat which means you will miss cue more using it unless you stop, and closely observe how it goes on. You must apply it perfectly which is hard to do in a lot of pool halls that now have you playing in the dark.

You can never count on any pool hall to give you a decent piece of chalk. You end up with a bunch of worn out piece with deep holes in them that puts blue marks all over your ferrule. Most of the chalk you see in bars was there when Ike was in office. Just buy a box of 12 pieces from my site: www.billiards-superstore.com and supply your own.

Several years ago Ray Schuler brought me into Chicago to perform a New Years Eve artistic show for all of his friends and clients. The next day it snowed 2í. I dug out his driveway for him because he had a bad heart and we spent the entire day playing 3-c on his 1925 Brunswick table which has green 300 cloth. He likes to use Beige chalk because he knew it coated better than the green chalk. I used Blue. We played all day and well into the night and when we quit you could not see a mark of chalk dust on that table because we both were chalking lightly and correctly using Triangle tips.

CHALK TYPES TO USE:
Silver cup is really good chalk but I think its problem is they make it too good. It goes on too light which means two things. A cube lasts longer so rooms should put it out for that reason alone and players will steal less of it because they donít like it. To use it you have to stop and watch your tip when you chalk and do it perfectly. If you just slop it on without looking you will miscue more with it than with Masters.

I like Masters chalk the best. I think the blue applies the best coat and the green miscues more because it goes on with a lighter coat. Tommy Kennedy thinks it is just the opposite and he only uses green. Masters says itís all the same and Silver cup says in theirs and Masters; there is a difference between the two.

On a blue or green cloth you may use blue or green chalk. On Red cloth, only red, on Beige or Camel cloth, only beige chalk. Burgundy, use burgundy chalk. If you use blue chalk on these cloths it will show up badly and be very hard to clean off especially using blue on Camel. Never use Beige chalk on Blue but you could get by with it on Green if you are careful. It shows up badly stop using it. Chalk properly, use a new piece and you never get chalk dust on your fingers. If you do, it washes off so donít trash a cloth because of this. People who use beige chalk on blue cloths are stupid bozos. They are pigs who trash the cloth for the next incoming guy because they are a girlie boy afraid of getting some dust on their little pinkies. Most of them play with a pink cue probably.

Fats taught me how to play and he was very meticulous in applying his chalk. He would stop, plant the butt of his cue on the floor and wipe soft strokes in a downward angle until his tip was covered. He would watch this closely go on evenly. A gambler cannot afford to miss cue and lose. Just rotate the shaft and put down about 5 light strokes and then a swipe over the middle. You chalk using the outer edges of the piece and not the middle. I can play all night long and have almost no chalk dust on my fingers. If you are using a very hard tip then you may have to make harder more down striking motions or even a little grinding to get it on.

This was the proper advice for putting chalk on the softer single layer tips. You do not want to grind it on where you get too heavy of a coat which defeats its purpose. Putting it on too thick just puts too many blue dots on the cue ball. You want to clean them off as much as possible during your play. That blue dot can roll over and hit the impact point of the object ball and throw the shot off to miss the entire pocket. I do a demo where I put chalk on both contact points and I can now throw the object ball 2í over and off the aim line and when those same two balls do not have chalk on them they can only be thrown 3Ē.

Steve Davis once told me that he claims he lost the 1985 world Snooker championship because of this. He had a straight in shot pot black for victory and he missed the entire pocket. He says he hit the shot pure and the chalk dot apparently rolled over and hit right on the contact point of the black causing it to skid off line and miss. Steve can miss a pot, but not miss the entire pocket. He says if he has that shot come up again he will hit it center ball and chalk up using on a single very light wipe over the top of the tip. Because Snooker players are so aware of this problem it is not un common to see them stop and ask the Ref to mark, pick up and clean and replace the cue ball during the frame. I have seen them do this 3 times during a game. The Snooker players chalk the best and they do it right. Pool players never did this but as more international players join our USA tours I saw a few request this on tour last year.

It is a bigger problem in pool than in snooker which breaks very soft where you hit no harder than a lag to clip the stack of reds and then lag back up table to hide behind the balke colors. That puts a light dot on the cue ball which normally is erased by the rub of the rolling ball on the cloth.

In pool we are hitting the break with maximum force, jump shots and masses put serious dots on the ball that do not come off unless they are rubbed off with a towel. When itís my break I check the cue ball and I try and rub off any dot I see on my pants leg. On the UPA world 9 ball tour I would never do that for fear of being accused of doctoring the cue ball. I would ask the ref to clean the ball to CYA.

The old straight pool players never knew the reason nobody could make super high runs. About every 200 balls something totally weird would happen. You would miss an easy shot and not know why. A lot of them ran 200 but few could get to 300 and beyond. The 300 club is very small. I only got into the 200 range once and ran 274 and then missed a straight in shot into a side pocket. I could not believe my own eyes. I had chalked up too heavily and the dot rolled over and got me and I did not know it at the time.


CHALK, HOW TO APPLY IT:

I have written how important it is to apply a very light layer of chalk and do not grind or squeak as you apply it. You chalk using only a new piece and on the edges of the chalk and not in the middle making grinding or squeaking sounds like finger nails going down a school chalk board. You want to rotate the cue and lightly strike it 4 or 5 times putting on the lightest coat you can evenly on the edges and my final strike is now in the middle. A heavy coat just gets it all over the cue ball which is bad. Minnesota Fats gave me my first lesson from him it was on how to chalk perfectly. He would always stop, plant his cue butt and pay very close attention to his chalking.
That advice does apply to the softer tips that hold chalk well. Most miscues are caused by bad and improper chalking. You must chalk well after every shot. You all are filing your tips down too often. Some file every time they miscue and a packed down tip is usually not the cause of that missed shot. Greenleaf used to file every time he had a big draw shot. You just do not have to do this.

The problem with grinding on a thick layer of chalk is it puts a really nice little chalk dot on the cue ball. Soon you have 4 or 5 of them. You get one on the break most of the time. That chalk dust that stays on the cue ball is very bad and dangerous. I clean the cue ball every time I get my hands on it off of a cue ball in hand foul or when I break. If I see a dot I just rub it off on my pants leg. That leg is going to get dirty any way rubbing the table all night long.


Most of us just do not know how much throw chalk dust can do. If somebody shoots an object ball back to me by hitting it with their tip I have a fit and stop and explain why you never ever do this. I now have to clean that ball and it is now different from the other 14 and will cut and now throw different. I wonít let you eat lunch and play with my balls, unless youíre a lady. There are exceptions to every rule. I donít want hamburger and French fry grease on them that is worse than chalk. We eat, wash our hands in soap, and then resume play. I hate to lag with the 1 ball and cue ball, I donít want a chalk mark on the one, I get two cue balls, or clean the one after the lag.

In the snew-ka world it is poor taste and against the rules to ever put a piece of chalk on a rail. Like them, I chalk up and put my piece in my pocket in my vest. When not wearing one, I have only one piece on the table, there is never any reason to have more than one. All you end up doing is moving them out of your way when there is one on every rail. Soon you have 3 on a rail.

I chalk up for every shot, place the chalk every time on my right, shoot, pick up the piece with my right hand with out even looking at it because it is in the same place every time, chalk up again with out looking because I can do it by feel perfectly, line up the next shot and repeat the process. My chalk moves with me. When I leave the table, it leaves with me. This is a move you must have totally choreographed like a dance step, so you no longer think about it. You must, chalk up on every shot, that is a cardinal rule. Always set it down on your right side, and then pick it up without even looking at it. When you set it at the same place, every time, you can do this.

If you donít have any good or new chalk you carry with you then I carry a couple of really bad pieces I will put out for you. You never get your hands on my good piece. People will come over and ask to use it and I say no, go buy your own, itís only a quarter, and how cheap can you get here? I have a box of 12 in my trunk for only $5, do you want one? No, they just want to mooch off you for free. Then I say, if you want a new piece of chalk go up and ask the desk man for one and find out how cheap he is too.

Put out a brand new piece on the rail when the room is crowded and go to the john and when you return somebody will steal it. I donít know why players just donít buy a box of it and solves this silly problem of being forced to use a worn out piece of chalk with this big hole down the middle that is trashing your ferrule up with blue. The rooms hate to put out new pieces for the same reason, when they do, it also get stolen. This is the main reason you only use one piece and always keep it at your chair and if you leave to go to the bar, it goes in your pocket with your glove. If you donít do that, they will grow legs and walk off.


Snew-ka feels putting the chalk on the rail means you can use it as an aiming point and they are right, I do exactly that. If I am shooting and know I have to roll the cue ball down 4 diamonds to get shape, I walk down, see the perfect angle, then place the chalk on the rail where that point is and then use the chalk as my aim point to send my cue ball to. That is why you need to give away that stupid stick with the chalk hanging on the end of it that goes into your pocket. It prevents you from doing this. It also marks you, as a real ding dong pigeon. No good player, or pro would be caught dead with one of these.

When I was in the APA an opponent realized I was marking rails with my chalk and he would run up to my table and pick up my chalk off the rail on me. He accused me correctly of marking the rail which really pissed me off royal. So on the next shot when he removed my chalk I just spit on the cushion and said, erase that a hole. It caused such an outrage they passed a rule you could not mark the table in any way with chalk or expectorate. It was then known as the fast Larry no spitting on the table rule. Yes Yes, I am a nasty bad boy.

If you watch me play and it the chalk does not go tight to my right side, I am using it as a marker if I place it up table. Some pool books have rules against this but if you do it very smooth few will pick it up and call it on you.

Billiards 3-cushion used to feel the same way and all chalk went in their vests but they now are all using it as aiming points setting the chalk on the rails which is allowing them higher runs.

Some people want a chalk on every rail and if you remove them they will put them back up. I think they just get in the way. Those who do that just donít know and are showing they have no experience. The total dork sets the piece face down so the bottom is up and the dust falls all over the rail thinking the chalk dust will not get on his pinkies. Where does he think the dust is going, on the rail, then on your hands? The double dork uses beige piece on a blue cloth and trashes the cloth as a result he does not want any blue in his pinkeys. If the dork knew how to chalk properly he would never get dust on his fingers. And itís a good bet this is a powder chalk pig also, the one who gets the white dust all over both hands and then all over the cloth.

Most of these are simple etiquette rules one learns over time. The worst offense is to miss, then begin to chalk up and hang on to the chalk grinding away when the on coming player needs it. If you miss, you need to leave the table; you do not need to chalk to sit in a chair. When you come to the table you chalk, never when you leave it. I get onto people for this; I chastise them and wonít put up with it. Every time they do it, I give them the same speech. If they keep doing it, I quit playing and I tell them I will not play with stupid people, life is too short.

I have written how important it is to apply a very light layer of chalk and do not grind or squeak as you apply it. That advice does apply to the softer tips that hold chalk well. We are getting into a new world of very hard tips that do not hold chalk well at all and grinding it on is now required on many of them. Most of the water buffalo tips I am seeing are too hard for me. Yes I can do some amazing things with them but I feel there is a miss cue problem with them. If I miss cue several times on shots with a new tip I was not doing so on before, that tip comes off.

Chalk is basically dirt in a wrap. It picks up moisture real quick and it does not dry out fast. Let it be raining, or have a lot of humidity and chalk can get soft. You canít see it, but if you try and grind it on, and it does not squeak, itís gone bad. It will put on a thick wet layer and your draws will begin to fail, or come back half what they used to, and suddenly you donít have a clue where the cue ball is going. You have lost many matches in the past where this occurred and you never knew what caused it.

So I always bring in a couple of wet bad pieces that are brand new and I put them out on the rails for you to use. You see this new piece and you jump on it like a dog on a juicy T Bone. Dude, I just T boned yo ass. I come to the table with my dry piece, and take it back to my chair. You are toast and you never knew what hit you. Some hustlers will spit in chalk when you go to the rest room and when they see it dry out where you canít see it they feed you that piece.

When chalk gets wet, and I buy it by the gross, I just give it away. You can put it on a pie pan and bake it dry in the oven for 10 or 15 minutes at 400 degrees. I keep my chalk at home in a constant 70ís temperature in my office. I only carry 3 pieces at a time. I seal them in a small plastic bag and insert a small moisture absorbing pack you get out of vitamin bottles.
After each all day session, I usually replace 2 pieces with new ones in my bag when I get home. Once I begin to make a crater, I stop using it, as thatís when the blue really gets on your hands and on your ferrule. It is a 25 cent item; I am not going to milk a piece of chalk out to save a dime.

I am using Talisman pig skin layered tips and they come in s,m,h,x. They and the Morriís and all the others are all hard tips, very hard, great performance, but you must chalk up on every shot and do it perfectly or you will miscue. There is a price to pay for these new tips, more time spent on your chalking. So a Morri or a Talsiman S, is not a soft tip, it is a very hard time, just a little softer than the very hard M tip. I played with the Triangle single layered tip for years and the durometer harness rating on them and the Talisman H are the same. So you guys can play with a harder tip than the M and get by with it and achieve even more spin and power.

Most should begin with the Talisman S, and then see if they can move up to the M, then try the H. The really fine player could be using the H like I do on tour for regular play. I am using the X on some of my artistic shots. The harder the tip, the greater the performance it gives on every shot.

The X is hard to chalk and its one step over the line I think. When you get this hard the danger of miss cue is high and you have to stop and chalk perfect on every shot. The XX tip is as hard as they can make them and they are for jump or break cues. They are fantastic. I actually have to grind it and squeak it to get the chalk on to prevent miss cues. If I apply it my old way, it does not go on well enough or thick enough. I have written in the past to just brush a fine layer on, then you may see me on TV or on a teaching DVD doing the opposite and that is why, the tip I am now using requires this. If you are using a Lepro or Elk master, you can brush it on and it will hold.

If you have a table in your home and you set chalk on the rails it is a certainty it will fall off and drop under the table without you knowing it is there. Bank on it. If you have rug rats, or dogs they will find it, put it in their mouths and begin to chew on it. Bank on it. Both love this stuff.

Ok, the question is, do you want them doing that. Answer no, I canít tell you how many chewed up pieces of chalk my Mountain Cur has gone through. That dog is now nuts. If a piece hits the floor, she nails it. Is it safe for them to do that? It may not be so my advice is better safe than sorry. Chalk gets knocked off and forgotten when you have a piece on every rail. From now on only have one piece on the table at any time and when the game is up take the chalk and put it in a secure place away from Fido and rug rat.

We know kids eat lead in paint and we know what that can do to them. It appears there was lead in chalk and this became such a concern the leading chalk manufacturer Tweeten changed their compound to eliminate the lead during 2005, 2006, Players at once felt the new chalk did not play as well as the old ones did. There are documented cases you can find on the net of children poisoned by snooker or pool chalk and the lead in them.

The new chalk without lead has an American flag on the wrapper. If you have any of the old style left lying around and you have kids or dogs, take it out of play. It appears most of the lead was in the green chalks. I have to be careful as I am still playing with the lead because I had 3 grosses of it and am now down to my last half gross.

This article was posted on Google and I copy it for you. I do not endorse its accuracy. I only wish to point out there must be something to this or Tweeten would not have changed their chalk.

Titre du document / Document title
Pool cue chalk : A source of environmental lead
Lead compounds are used as coloring agents for numerous products. Two cases of children with elevated blood lead concentrations encountered by the authors suggested that pool cue chalk may serve as a source of environmental lead. The objective of this study was to determine lead content of various brands and colors of pool cue chalk. Atomic absorption analyses were conducted of 23 different types of pool cue chalk for lead content. Three of 23 types of pool cue chalk contained more than 7000 ppm (mg/kg) lead : one manufacturer's green and tangerine chalk and another manufacturer's green chalk. It was concluded that some brands of pool cue chalk contain relatively large amounts of lead and could contribute to childhood lead poisoning.

Pool chalk can be source of lead poisoning. While most of today's parents are aware of the dangers of lead poisoning and its common sources (leaded paint, contaminated soil, and water from lead pipes), doctors in the UK have identified another potential source of lead poisoning: pool chalk--the tiny cubes of chalk used in playing pool. Reuters.

Because lead has useful qualities, it was added to many common household products -- places youíd never think of. Lead used to be added to the paint that is used on your childrenís toys. Now, if it has been made in the United States, the paint should not have lead in it. Crayons and chalk made in the US should also be free of lead. But if they were produced in another country, particularly from a Southeast Asian country, and even if manufactured by an American company, itís likely that the crayons and chalk will have lead in them. Check the labels!
A lot of pottery is covered with glazes that contain lead. The United States and most western European countries no longer use lead in pottery paints or glazes. Look on the bottom of pottery to see if it says it is safe to use for cooking and storing foods. If there isnít a label or if the salesperson isnít sure, use the pottery for decoration, but not for food. Pottery purchased in Mexico and Asia almost always has lead in them, so theyíre not safe to use with food.
Many people enjoy buying pottery, dishes, toys, furniture and other household goods at flea markets. Many of these items will have lead in their glazes or in the paint that covers them. Wooden toys and furniture for babies, such as cribs, may be unexpected sources of exposure for your children. Many young children like to suck on the edges of their cribs or on toys. This may result in their being lead poisoned. Also, if you are going to refinish the furniture, do not sand or dry scrape the paint off of them and do not refinish the furniture in areas where the children are.
Other common household products also have lead in them. These items include candlewicks, pool chalk, and venetian blinds. Lead may be released into the air when candles are burned and there have been reports of venetian blinds disintegrating and leaving lead chips where children may play.
(1) THE TWO BALLS FROZEN THROW PROPOSITION SHOT


http://cuetable.com/WeiTable/


START( %Ao2O7%Pp4O7%QA7N7%RB7Q1%SA5[4%UC8O7%Vs1O7%eC2b7%_[9D0%`e9I6 %at1Q1%bE3R0%cO5Q4%do5P0 )END


Directions on how to open the Wei table are at the end.

Freeze the one ball and cue ball together so a line drawn through their centers points to the middle diamond 7 at the far end of the table marked A. Hit the cue ball in the center and the one ball will hit that diamond. The bet is I can put more English on a ball than you can and will throw the one ball further to the left that you will be able to. I prefer to use the 11 ball as you can line it up better. I will take an 11 and 12 ball and line up their outside lines to know they are perfect and then deep tap in both balls. Then on each shot both players will be shooting from the same exact position and cannot achieve an advantage by cheating by adding an un seen extra angle to the shot. To prevent this I announce Iíll freeze the balls for both of our shots to insure fairness. This allows me to be unfair and now cheat you. I hope my priest is not reading any of this or Iíll never get out of the church.

I now remove the 12, put it in my pocket along with the 13 and place the cue ball and 11 froze. I then show the opponent how to throw the 11 or one ball as I have it diagramed. I use maximum low right and aim across the ball shown by the yellow line. I hit it hard and my throw might be around a balls width to B. I tell him to stand behind me so he can see me do it so he can get the idea of the shot. Once he sees how I do it I ask him to stand down on the other end so he can mark where my balls throw to. I ask him to just grab and hold the 11 when it hits the rail and leave it there and that is how we will mark where the ball throws to. I pick up the 11 and set the cue ball and 11 in line and say: You are now up, take your 3 shots now.
He will not fare much better than I did and when he shoots the 11 I leave it on the rail, pull the 12 out of my pocket and freeze it to the cue ball for his 2nd shot. He shoots and if itís the same shot I leave the 12 on top of the 11 and now pull out the 13 ball and freeze it to the cue ball.
When he shoots the 13 I grab and hold it in place as this was hit best throw. I pound that ball in place to create a divot so we canít lose that spot and then replace the 13 with a 9 ball to mark his shot. I roll the 11-12-13 balls up table and then shove them into the pocket in reverse order, 13, then 12, then 11. Then I pull out the 11 and try the shot, he holds it down table. I pull out the 12, same thing.

What he does not know is I now have two 13 balls in the pocket. The one he was using and the one I gaffed. I have heavily chalked the number with my piece of chalk in an area about the size of a quarter. When I reach in the pocket I pull out the bottom 13, turn it to insure I can see the chalk on the number so I have the right one and when I pull it out the chalk part faces me and he canít see it. I place the chalk area so it freezes to the cue ball. I use less English than before so I do not miss cue as that is the only way I can now lose. I throw the ball one full diamond further than him to win and I can if I want to risk a miscue throw the ball two diamonds over and pot it in the corner marked C.

To do that you would have to have both balls well chalked up. What this does prove to you is the enormous amount chalk can throw a ball and why it is so vital to keep it off of the balls when you play, especially off of the cue ball. In Artistic trick shots when he have a bad table, bad cloth and rails, too much humidity and the trick shot will not work and the balls wonít throw we add a touch of chalk to the contact points and bingo, down she goes.

People will cheat you using this knowledge on proposition shots like this or even on the break where they will rub chalk dust on their thumb and put it on the one ball when they rack it up. They can rub their forehead for grease so they will throw balls also and they can then throw the one in the side pocket with greater ease. It is really hard to detect them doing this unless you know where and what to look for. The effects of spit are displayed in the next shot.

(2) SPIT SHOT DOWN THE RAIL 3 BALL COMBO
http://cuetable.com/WeiTable/

START( %AH6Z9%EH0Y8%II9Z9%PE5P4%Qs4[1%Rr2Y3%SA5[4%Uq5Y9%VJ8Z8%eB4a5 %bG7X6%cF8V0%dE6Q1 )END

You shoot into the 5 and have to pot the 9 ball in the far corner marked A and since it a wired in combo the mark canít see how it can miss but when he shoots it the 9 comes off the rail and hits at B on the point or wide of the point. On most tables this shot cannot be made but beware and always test it because on some with sloppy bucket pockets it will go. You really want to even find a table that rolls off left then itís a perfect hustle he cannot win which is what we call a Hungarian mortal lock you cannot escape from.
Do not pull this shot on any older player as this shot is very widely known and has been seen by a lot of people. It was invented in 1902. Remember even though a shot is older than the hills, every year there is a new freshman class that has not seen anything so itís your duty to break them in. If you donít get them first, somebody else will for you. The placement of the cue ball and how much angle the 5 has on the combo is critical. Keep playing around with the set up until you find where it will miss every time then deep tap in the cue ball and the 3 ball combo. You can then set it back up later on and all 4 balls will roll in the holes. You want the entire 3 ball combo to be frozen to each other.

You now bet the mark he canít make the shot and give him 3 snaps. You bet him you can make the shot and he canít. You make him go first. He shoots and misses 3 times in a row and does not have a clue what happened. When you get your hands on the balls you wipe sweat or off your forehead, run the tip of you index finger on your tongue and put the spit, not too much so it drips on the cloth and blows the con on the number of the 9 and place the wet spot on the contact point of the one ball. There is now spit between those two balls and they are frozen on the spit.

You now say the only way to make that shot is by using special grab English and your standard leather tip is too hard and small to do that. You say you need a huge rubber tip for that.
You now turn your cue around and shoot the shot using your butt end off the rubber bumper. The 9 pots and the mark thinks that was the secret. You ask him if he wants to try it again double or nothing so he can get his money back. Yes, you are robbing the poor boy blind but that is what a hustle and con does. This proves that moisture, kills all cling and throw. Remember this when it is raining out side or the joint gets real hot and sweaty, you now must over cut because cling and throw are being eliminated. Tattoo this under your eye lids, dirty balls thrown more, moisture kills all throw.

(3) FINGER SPIT PUSH

START( %Pr9O6%UM5O7%Vq7O5 )END


http://cuetable.com/WeiTable/

Freeze the cue ball to the short rail in the middle on diamond 7. The bet is who can push the cue ball the furthest down table. You demo the shot and the rules; you canít flick the ball with your nail by bending your finger back. Your 3 fingers must bend in and your knuckles are on the rail and your thumb is also. Only your finger can move. It must be placed on the ball and you then push the cue ball. If your hand or arm moves it is a foul. Note when they fail at it, they will begin to cheat so be advised of this. You run a very light coat of spit on just you finger tip from your mouth when he is not looking, turn or walk around him to conceal this.

Make the shot pushing the cue ball a couple of feet down table to make it look easy for him to beat you. He goes first and each of you gets 3 attempts. The 0nly thing he can do is push down on the cue ball because you have it froze to the rail and that puts back spin on it and heís lucky to get it a foot away.
You can add a little more spit and force and lag the cue ball 9í down to the far end rail and pick up the cash. They guy never figures out you cheated him. Just be careful not to use too much spit and it drips on the cloth and he sees it and then figures out the con. You only need a light coat to slide off the ball with your finger tip. You can even wipe your forehead if itís greasy with your finger tip which is even better.

Best Wishes,

ďFast LarryĒ Guninger



HOW TO OPEN THE OLDER WEI TABLE. Put your mouse on the far right end of the HTML code, left click, drag to gray in, right click, hit copy.
The code may look something like this.

START ( %AN7O5%BL7P8%CJ5O4%DL7N1%EM7P1%FK6P1%GK6N8%HM7N8%IL7O4%Ph5Z0%QB3Z9%UP4P0%Vg4Y6%eC3a7%_D1Z5%`E5X2%aL3O5)END

Put the mouse over the cue table .com with the line under it below this, now left click and hold at the same time to open the table and hold down ctrl and shift together at the same time on your bottom left keyboard. The blue table appears, at the bottom, hit paste, and then OK twice, and you now see the shot.

http://cuetable.com/WeiTable/
((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((***)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
)))))))))))




FLE POOL INC

Phone 770-381-6609 email flepool@bellsouth.net


BILLIARD SUPER STORE, lowest prices on pool tables, cues & accessories. We will meet or beat
any price on the net. You want it, we have it or we will get it.
www.billiards-superstore.com

We are a Ebay power seller, business verified and have our own store.

http://stores.ebay.c...e-lowest-prices


TALK POOL, www.poolchat.net
1,000 members, polite people, no flame wars or bozos. Contests have recently given away free pool tables, cues and ten thousand dollars of pool cues, racks, balls and DVDís. Itís now the 4th largest pool chat site in the USA and been in business for 6 years. These two sites, pool chat and Fastlarrypool each generate 10,000 hits a week from 37 countries. FREE POOL LESSONS FROM A GRAND MASTER LEVEL INSTRUCTOR, BILLIARDS EXPERT, CURRENT 9 BALL TOURING PRO AND FORMER ARTISTIC WORLD CHAMPION. In the ask the pros forum.ďFast LarryĒ Guninger 770-381-6609.


PRO POOL TOUR PLAYER.

Larry plays on five pro pool tours. His tour cards are: the UPA, the menís main tour; where he has ranked between 35th and 50th for the last three years, the Florida 9 ball tour, SE pro 9 ball tour, the Senior Tour and the APTSA (Artistic Pool and Trick Shot Association.

POOL SCHOOL. Book a lesson from a touring pro and master level instructor. Bring in a trick shot show
by a World Artistic champion. See world class trick shots steam live. Just click the trick shot show tab. Natural pool, simple techniques, dramatic results. Video taped lesson. You get what you come for or the lesson is free.
THE POWER SOURCE POOL SCHOOL "Fast Larry" Guninger. POOL LESSONS FROM A MASTER LEVEL INSTRUCTOR AND WORLD CHAMPION. 770-381-6609, fax 770-381-1916 web site www.fastlarrypool.com
Rates for lessons are: http://www.fastlarry.../getlessons.htm

THE ENCYCLOPEDIA. The total learning center. Explore the Encyclopedia section where there are
226 instruction articles and its all free access. Enough pool knowledge to fill 4 full books. Simply click the link,
hit enter, hit the tab at the far left which says Encyclopedia, then register free and read and advance your game.
Virtually every question you can have is answered there.
www.fastlarrypool.com

TRICK SHOT SHOW. Bring Fast Larry in to perform his mind boggling 100 shots. See him perform the
World famous legends show. See the greatest trick shots made that the greatest players performed. Very affordable
Rates. See the former world champion and Ripleyís believe it or not legend blow your socks off.
To see my shots Go into www.fastlarrypool.com and at the upper left click the trick shot show.
http://www.fastlarry.../trickshots.htm See Fast Larry play. Here it is: a growing collection that will continue to increase, so keep stopping in to see it. http://www.youtube.com/fastlarryg Click the link, there are my shots, enjoy. Itís the fastlarryg channel, our own internal site for our shot collections. We are proud to be listed as number one in hits as pro trick shot artists by both Google and U Tube in both 2007 & 2008.

((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((***)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
))))))))))))))))))

Pool is being taught wrong by almost everyone but me and a small group who actually know. Very few actually do know and have the knowledge to take you there. Most of what you know and paid for is dead wrong which is why you are reading this now, it did not work for you. You thought it was you. It never dawned on you. You had a bad teacher that did not know. If you want the truth and methods that do work come see me.

All truth passes through three stages. First it is ridiculed. Second it is violently opposed. Third it is accepted as being self-evident. - Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)
Do not reprove the fool lest he hate you. Reprove the wise man and he will love you. Proverbs 9:8.
Those who seek me seek inside knowledge and receive it from a high end finisher and Grand Master level instructor who can actually play. Those who seek it from big names writing books receive bull crap from a guy who canít run 3 friggen balls and they get what they paid for. Big time Bull crap that does not work which leads them into paralysis by analysis. They live on the premise that a sucker like you is born every minute and you will keep buying their crap. Come to me, Iíll give you the straight story on every facet of the game.
May God bless and peace be with you. May there now be peace between us. If you are a real pool player, then fast truly loves you. May the wind be always on your back and all 9 balls fall.
VENI VIDI VICI, OMNIA VINCIT AMOR. ď Latin for ďI came, I saw, I conquered, love conquerors all. Yes I really did do it all and you can believe it, or not. If you donít believe it, Cíest La Vie. " Shoot straight, innovate, never give up, just run out on the other guy then there is no way for you to lose.
Either lead me, follow me or get the hell out of my way. Do one of the three please. Come celebrate the wonder of this beautiful game with me and become a student of it.
Be my friend, walk my way, flow with what I teach you and you will soar like the Eagle into levels of excellence you never dreamed possible. Play by feel, not by systems, do not make a simple game complicated. Go with what you know, go with what is natural.
"Winners make things happen. Losers let things happen." In the words of Vince Lombardi, "When it comes to the future, there are three kinds of people: those who let it happen, those who make it happen, and those who wonder what happened." Vince said youíve got to pay the price. Winning is not a sometime thing, itís an all the time thing. Winning is a habit, unfortunately so is losing.
Vince Lombardi once said, ďThe quality of a personís life is in direct proportion to their commitment to excellence, regardless of their chosen field of profession or endeavor.
This is a feel game and a mind game. When the mind is pure, pure perfect pool will follow. Perfect pool comes from being taught how to practice perfect. Being in dead punch is the ultimate trip and reward from that. ďFLĒ

If you can dream it, see it, believe it, you can be it and perform totally out of the box. Then you are a person with no limits who can achieve anything he can imagine that a human body is capable of producing. ďFLĒ
Rack em sausage, Go play fast and loose. Ride em hard, put em up wet, leave the ladies smiling. Live free, die well with your boots on owing no man nothing. May you be in heaven an hour before the devil knows youíre dead. In time, itís all dust in the wind anyway. Donít take yourself, or anything too serious, just be happy and healthy. Laughter, good whiskey and song is the best medicine. If you have a library, a garden, a good woman and a barrel of Scotch, you have all you need. Be sure to take the time, to smell the flowers along the way. Aristole said ď Happiness is the meaning and the purpose of life, the whole aim and end of human existence.Ē People will forget what you did, what you wrote, what you accomplished. People are like Elephants, they will never forget you if you are rude or cruel to them, also, they will never forget you if you are kind and loving towards them. Each person you meet, give them a warm smile and show them the love you have for everyone no matter what their status or position in life is, treat them all the same. Tomorrow is not guaranteed to any of us. So live this day, like it is your last one, who knows, it just might be.

Die happy and you lived a good life. God bless American, the land of the free and of the brave

THE POWER SOURCE POOL SCHOOL GOES ON THE ROAD. Email us at fastlarrypool.com to see if the school is coming to your town in the near future. As you can see from last years schedule, we do teach all over the country and were in 40 of the 48 states.

You can take your game to that next level you have dreamed about. Come to our work shop and learn
from a former world champion and master level instructor Fast Larry Guninger. Two days of intense all day training on the weekends Saturday and Sunday.

The best price of any school. Only $237 a day, or $29 an hour. The
two day course is $475. No cattle car crowds where you get ignored. We
have the lowest amount of students per instructor of any school.
January 15-17, Kauai, Hawaii
February 7-9, New Orleans, La
March 10-12 Philadelphia, Pa
April 14-15 Atlanta, Ga
May 5-6 Washington D.C.
May 26-27 St Pete, Fla
June 16-20 & 24-25 Las Vegas, Nevada
July 7-8 Orlando, Fla
August 13-18 Denver, Colo
August 19-31 San Diego, Calif
Sept 17-30 Miami, Florida and the Bahamas.
October 20-22, Chicago, Illinois
November 16-18, Houston, Texas
December 20-22, Bali

You can have the pool school come to your home room by simply getting
your entire league team to buy in for the 2 day course or get others in
your league or school to take part. You will have to get 5 players
who will put up small advance good faith deposits and then no matter
where you live, Oregon or Maine, we show up. You can now book the pool
school any time between January and July 2007. If you bring in five to the school
Then your lesson is free and you are the 6th student at no charge.
The pool schools have sold out for the last three years they have been
offered. As the number of students allowed is very small these slots
sell out very fast. Snooze and you lose. You can reserve your spot
today with only an advance deposit of $50 which is totally refunded if
you cancel out within 2 weeks of the school date.
For more details or to sign up and reserve your spot
You may call 770-381-6609 to discuss it.
((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((((***)))))))))))))))))))))))))))))
))))))))))))))))))))

"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.comicon_smile.gificon_biggrin.gificon_surprised.gificon_surprised.gificon_razz.gif


#3 FASTLARRY

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Posted 29 August 2009 - 01:35 PM

I have 12 pieces, un used of 1993 preflag green masters chalk, for sale at $3 a piece.

Buy all 12 and I'll toss in 2 free pieces of preflag blue. None of my blue is for sale, I am keeping it for my use on tour and in competition.

A small s&h parcel post fee will be added to your order.

"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.comicon_smile.gificon_biggrin.gificon_surprised.gificon_surprised.gificon_razz.gif


#4 CocoboloCowboy

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Posted 29 August 2009 - 04:39 PM

Honestly I use nothing but MASTER GREEN, have tried the BLUE Diamond, and I think the stories of Blue diamond are ALL BULLSH*T!!! IMHO. :biggrin:



THIS IS WHAT I LOVE ABOUT THE POOL WORLD, WHEN I SELL 12 PCS, THE FGT COSTS MORE THAN THE CHALK, ITS HEAVY AND EXPENSIVE TO SHIP.

Master makes Blue diamond in Chicago, ships it to Italy, they ship it back to a USA distributor, who ships it to you in Ariz. That is how a 25 cent piece of chalk becomes A $4 piece.

And like our boy selling the $80 DVD, the more you charge these bozos, they more they want it. They would be smarter to charge $5 a piece, it would not matter.

You need to snag some of my 1993 green preflag pieces. I do not use green which is why I am unloading it.
I am convinced blue coats better than green, but I can find 50 pros who will swear I am wrong, and 50 who will agree with me, so who knows, who cares. Use what floats yo boat.
“Pool is geometry, in its most challenging form, the science of precise angles, and forces"{C}{C} {C}{C}- {C}{C}{C}Quote from: A Game of Pool, The Twilight Zone 1961 Television Show.

#5 FASTLARRY

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Posted 29 August 2009 - 08:55 PM

[quote name='CocoboloCowboy' date='Aug 29 2009, 05:39 PM' post='27786']
Honestly I use nothing but MASTER GREEN, have tried the BLUE Diamond, and I think the stories of Blue diamond are ALL BULLSH*T!!! IMHO. :biggrin:



THIS IS WHAT I LOVE ABOUT THE POOL WORLD, WHEN I SELL 12 PCS, THE FGT COSTS MORE THAN THE CHALK, ITS HEAVY AND EXPENSIVE TO SHIP.

Master makes Blue diamond in Chicago, ships it to Italy, they ship it back to a USA distributor, who ships it to you in Ariz. That is how a 25 cent piece of chalk becomes A $4 piece.

And like our boy selling the $80 DVD, the more you charge these bozos, they more they want it. They would be smarter to charge $5 a piece, it would not matter.

You need to snag some of my 1993 green preflag pieces. I do not use green which is why I am unloading it.
I am convinced blue coats better than green, but I can find 50 pros who will swear I am wrong, and 50 who will agree with me, so who knows, who cares. Use what floats yo boat.

And if any body is curious and wants to try the blue diamond chalk, no problemo, 2 pieces are $7, send me an email and I'll ship them out. I do not take a position on them because one says its great, the other says no its not, so its up to the user to try it and make up his own mind. The only way you will know, is to get two pieces and run them for a while.

Al long as I still have 250 pieces of 1993 preflag chalk, I could care less. I don't have the problem, you have the problem. By the time I run through the 250 pieces, I will be asking somebody to chalk my tip by then, because I can no longer see it.

"Fast Larry" Guninger
The Power Source Traveling Pool School. To see my web page come alive click here: www.fastlarrypool.comicon_smile.gificon_biggrin.gificon_surprised.gificon_surprised.gificon_razz.gif


#6 Cracker Barrel Gizmatchi

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Posted 30 August 2009 - 12:35 AM

im usually using Triangle Chalk and MizeraK chalk... I never seen a difference in chalk, but i am still new at all this so maybe as time goes i will figure these things out.

#7 FASTLARRY

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Posted 30 August 2009 - 09:07 AM

im usually using Triangle Chalk and MizeraK chalk... I never seen a difference in chalk, but i am still new at all this so maybe as time goes i will figure these things out.



Yes you will, the longer you play, the more sensitive you become to things, the more you learn and acquire. I see and feel all kinds of things you don't now, but one day will. This can become a curse because I now see everything. This evolution takes place in every sport. At this point just listen to me and I will put you on the best things to use and do. Use Blue Master chalk for 35 cents a cube.
Don't waste your money paying $5 a cube for blue diamond which is what it is now selling for on ebay.
Have a Talisman S tip put on your cue. This is all solid advice, which will only help you play better.

"Fast Larry" Guninger
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#8 headmuses

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Posted 30 August 2009 - 10:35 AM

I have a one gross box of Triangle blue chalk that was made in 1960. It is the best I have used so far. I also bake a few pieces at a time when my current supply gets down to one piece. I usually carry three new pieces in a zip lock bag in my cue case. This Triangle Chalk is the old school leaded stuff, sticks to the tip like mollasses. Last year a good friend of mine was cleaning out his fathers house and found a brand new unopened box of Master blue from 1970 which he gave to me. I havent tried it yet.

#9 FASTLARRY

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Posted 30 August 2009 - 11:28 AM

[quote name='headmuses' date='Aug 30 2009, 11:35 AM' post='27797']
I have a one gross box of Triangle blue chalk that was made in 1960. It is the best I have used so far. I also bake a few pieces at a time when my current supply gets down to one piece. I usually carry three new pieces in a zip lock bag in my cue case. This Triangle Chalk is the old school leaded stuff, sticks to the tip like mollasses. Last year a good friend of mine was cleaning out his fathers house and found a brand new unopened box of Master blue from 1970 which he gave to me. I havent tried it yet.


ooooooooooooooooooooooooooaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Grasshopper, hang on to it with your life. Primo she-yit...........

Lay a piece of it on the rail playing me, go to the can, and its grows legs and walks off.

Yo, I dunno where it went, I saw, nut-zing.

The old stuff is out there, laying around, and now you know what to look for. If you see 2 or 3 old pieces, give them a brand new box of 12 flag good stuff, for that old bad stuff with lead they want to get out of the house. Or, when they are in the can, you could just swap the pieces, the flag for the no flag. You will have to go to confession on Friday and the old man will toss the rosary at ya, but it will be worth it. That is what I love about being a Catholic, I get to do what ever I want, confess it, I am forgiven, then I go back to my wicked ways again.

The older pieces have the glue break down and the paper wrap will loosen. I take a office glue stick and dab some on inside and press it back down. When I bake them in the oven to pull the moisture out, this also causes the glue problem.

And if that old piece is totally losing the wrap, or is half gone, stick it down into one of those chalk holders and grind away. Keep milking that piece until it breaks up and falls into little pieces.

click the pics to have them come alive

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#10 RoyZ

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Posted 30 August 2009 - 12:21 PM

Is there any health risk to the pool player using leaded chalk, i.e. breathing in chalk dust?

#11 FASTLARRY

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Posted 30 August 2009 - 12:50 PM

Is there any health risk to the pool player using leaded chalk, i.e. breathing in chalk dust?



No, I am proof of this, in 50 years, I would be dead by now. I am healthy as a buck sewer rat with nothing wrong with me, I pass all lab tests, heart, lungs, liver. It could explain why I am nuts and called Crazy Larry though? Why Earl went nuts. Maybe you got something there?
The chalk dust, croaks our brains? Clogs up our nurons and our protons shut down. I may write an article on that, when my memory comes back, when my memory comes back, when my memory comes back.

Some kid ate a piece in the UK, and a law suit took place, and Tweeten was afraid of getting sued here because of the lead scare in paint. Nobody died, it was a legal scare move.

My mountain cur dog Abbey loved to eat chalk, that bitch must have eaten a dozen pieces and she is 9, nuts, but alive. When a piece would fall off the rail, she would snag it, run over in a corner and hide it. Then when I could not hear her crunching it, she would eat it. Cur dawgs are super smart. Smarter than a Jack Russell, twice as mean.

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#12 FASTLARRY

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Posted 30 August 2009 - 03:09 PM

This white chalk I paid $3.16 a cube for, it was about 1900 brunswick, and white chalk was very common at that time both here and in England. I got a dozen pieces and they are all brand new and perfect which is very rare, and I have paid up to $36 for a single cube of rare stuff from the 20's and 30's. Antique chalk is expensive to acquire. There is not that much out there and the wealthy collectors will run you off a bid fast. You don't snag any of this stuff cheap.

I recently bought 4 M-85 Tommy Armour persimmon golf clubs from the 50's, 1 thru the 4 woods, for $15. 1-2-3-4 and they had been refinished which costs $25 a club.
Now and then somebody puts something up with no starting price, and nobody bids but me at the last minute, and I steal something. I am having trouble sleeping over this theft and robbery. I will definitely have to go to confession or see a shink to find out why I have been wearing the lone ranger mask since the sale. This one was shocking to me. I may have to turn my self in, to the pole lice, I could drive up and say, I want to report a robbery? $3.75 a club, somebody lock me up. Ebay, a great place to buy stuff, a lousy place to sell stuff.

I don't ever hang anything out there that you can steal, it all has a buy it now price, or a starting price that has my base nut covered.

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#13 FASTLARRY

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Posted 23 December 2014 - 08:58 PM

Now and then, you make deals, steal stuff, this chalk is now selling for $75 to $100 a cube. 

 

I bought a Phelan 1858 book for $50, its now selling for $1333.  What, I am gonna be stupid and sell it for 75 and say geeze, I made a 25% profit on it.  That is what the idiots on slimebay do.

 

What about my original bushka I bought for $600, its worth, 10K.  I can go, on and on...........

 

Some days, you eat da bear, some days, da bear eat you. 

 

Just because I steal something dirt cheap, does not mean, I sell it dirt cheap.  I sell things, for what the market bears. 

 

Look at Yo Sarah, I bought her for $35 back in 85, that was about a dollar a year. 

 

Take my wife......................please, make me a deal..............I paid, 35, you can have her for $70.

 

High mileage, but it still runs like a top.

 

I call her a Ford, fix or repair, daily...............


"Fast Larry" Guninger
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